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DZ Arete 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Dan D., Larry Zulim
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring thru late Fall
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Oct 21, 2015

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Leading the first pitch of the DZ arete. great rou...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The DZ Arete is the arete that makes the outer edge of the Crack N' Up Chimney. the first pitch is half trad and half sport, while the second is the crux sport pitch.

The first pitch starts up a crack with a bolt at the bottom. Follow this crack as it turns left towards the overhang with a bolt above it. Step over the overhang and continue up the face, lie-backing the arete and trusting your feet until you make a thin step right to the three bolt anchor with chains. 5.10. 90'
The second pitch is the crux. follow the bolt line through tiny smears and edges, testing your true trust for those kicks of yours. edge your way through the crux with nice bolts to egg you on until you arrive at the chained anchor. 5.11. 110'

Location 

Once you arrive at the race crack area turn left and head up the gully. Continue just past a left-leaning ramp on the wall (foggy bottom 5.9) and there will be a crack heading up the face to an arete. If you can see into the chimney, you've gone a bit too far.

Protection 

TCUs to 3" for the starting crack, plenty of draws for the rest(12+)


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