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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeker T 
Bumble Bee T 
Dystonia T 
Freedonia T 
Hannah Flower T 
Jack Knife  T 
Jack O'Lantern T 
Jesus Nut T 
Lost in Utopia T 
Makamah Road T 
Maze T 
Ora the Explorer  T 
Rumney Rocks Climb T 
Skywalker T 
Smashing Pumpkins T 
Stones , The T 

Dystonia 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Bradley White, 9/2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 17, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: That's supposed to a an arrow pointing to the unse...

Description 

This was the last slab wall to be climbed. There were some oak branches to be cleared on the ascent. 100ft up the climbing is severely green lichen covered and the shoes actually stayed put on the stuff. The climb starts out switchbacking left to right face climbing to reach the long left facing corner. After corner continue up right to steep right facing corner. Exiting this corner is the crux. After the corner continue up slab outcrops to the summit of Rattlesnake Mt. There is plenty of clean rock to be had on this one but the green lichen section most climbers won't enjoy it.

Location 

Above the large fallen tree, scramble up to the base of the pillar and on it's right side is a clearing. I entered the slab from there. There are much harder ways onto it at the fallen tree.

Protection 

There's trees higher up and I didn't pay any attention to pro placements.


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