REI Community
The Visor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absolute Boulder Canyon S 
Bone Home S 
Dyno Monkey S,TR 
Flying Machines S 
Flying Rubber Monkey Canyon S 
Geek in the Creek S 
Hair of the Dog S 
Rubberneck S 
Welcome Wagon S 

Dyno Monkey 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Alber, 2000
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Coming down after a long day at the Sport Park.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route is on The Visor, which is a small, overhanging wall at the top end of the Surprising Crag. The route takes the steepest line possible up the left side of the wall, connecting some obvious jugs. It starts about 10 or 15 feet from the left edge of the wall. NOTE: this is the most heavily modified piece of rock I have ever seen or could ever imagine. There is no way on Earth that the jugs on this thing could have even started out as natural holds. All are completely comfortized for your dynoing pleasure. That said, it is fun, and the huge dyno is great for photo-ops. Also, the grade is probably more like a mid-5.11 (other sources call it 12b, however), but if you're short, it is more difficult.


    6 quickdraws (including 2 for the anchor). All bolts are brand new and totally bomber, and there are two rap bolts at the top.

    Photos of Dyno Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Strohecker preparing for the big move.
    Nick Strohecker preparing for the big move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Mo...
    Pete Franzen climbing manufactured jugs on Dyno Mo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
    Pete Franzen on the crux final move of Dyno Monkey
    Rock Climbing Photo: If only my arm was 6 inches longer...
    If only my arm was 6 inches longer...

    Comments on Dyno Monkey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 6, 2001

    Well, it's probably a number grade too high. A similar, but harder route at Smith Rocks (Toxic), is rated 11b.
    By Andrew Hay
    Feb 26, 2004

    Great route and movement! A little soft though...wouldn't call it 12b, but well worth doing!
    By TBlom
    Aug 29, 2004
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    The only 12 I've ever been to the anchors on. Sport Park is also home of the only 11d I've redpointed. Oh well, still had a great time on the route. A fun TR because no one gets to dog around after they fall off. I love huge jugs up overhangs, too bad they are man made. I'll do it again for sure though.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jul 28, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    The route has some very positive holds. This climb is more about power & strength, less about subtle technique. Dynos do require technique & practice to perfect. Sport Park is a great place for that. The crux dyno is pretty wild & finishing it out is still powerful. A fun, short, very overhanging route.

    I can see how someone would call this .11d, but there is a point where downrating a climb is really a great way to flex your ego & draw attention to yourself. Calling this route about the same grade as Flying Machines (.11a/b) is pretty silly. I can think of numerous people who can climb most .11c or d routes but would struggle to send this route. Clearly rating are subjective. If dynoing & hanging by one arm with feet dangling is your thing, then this route is for you.

    There are 4 bolts / 2 Fixe rings on this route. Best advice is don't try to clip the anchor until you are on the long horizontal jug off to the right.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About