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Dyno Arête 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Brent Pohlmann reaching the jug on Dyno Arete.

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Dyno Arete is one of the stranger routes on Lost Angel. It is distinguished by a single crux move that is weirder than all hell, and is otherwise quite mediocre. Rossiter rates it 11a, but it's more of a boulder problem on a rope than anything... and probably not even that hard, once you commit to the move. Bizarre.

Start as for Freedom, then traverse left to the arete (crux), and up to the top.


6 bolts, bolted anchor.

Photos of Dyno Arête Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent Pohlmann on Dyno Arete.
Brent Pohlmann on Dyno Arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brent Pohlmann just before the crux on Dyno Arete.
Brent Pohlmann just before the crux on Dyno Arete.

Comments on Dyno Arête Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 6, 2002
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This was more difficult for me than most of the other 11s I tried there yesterday, including pitches up to 5.11d. This is a climb where height and armspan seem to be of significant importance.
By Darin Thompson
Jun 16, 2003

I would agree with the above comment - if you can reach the juggy holds around the corner with your left hand, it's not too bad, aside from the total lack of feet?!
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 18, 2003

From the anchor on Dyno Arete, you can top-rope the corner directly below. Start with Freedom, and continue up the corner instead of traversing right. Fun laybacking and stemming takes you to the anchor. I thought the line was solid 5.10 and well worth doing. Two stars.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2003

My partner is 5'2", and she was able to do the crux statically. Good line. Bring a few runners if rope drag is a problem.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2003

What is the route immediately to the left of DA? Excellent line, boulder problem start, steep slab moves, stemming dihedral. Not in Rossiter's book.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 23, 2003

Hey...the route is called Digital Dilemma. 5.11d/12a. 8 bolts. It's posted....
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Aug 27, 2006

I have to agree that this route is strange and pretty much sucks. I want my fifteen minutes of life back I used on this thing.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I can't let that be the last post. It is somewhat height dependent, though not enough to cry about, since my partner who is 1 foot shorter than me got it in a few tries. Right now the whole canyon smells of vanilla from those trees and is wonderfully cool... Enjoy the abilities you have, and just have fun outside!
By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2015

I think this is a pretty decent warm-up for other routes in the area. The crux is a bit of a one-move-wonder that's always involved falling into a jug for me. Good stone.

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