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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: Ian Wauchope on Aug 25, 2010

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Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

[NOTE: A mid-cliff START from the P1 belay of "Story of O". R. Hall, ME Admin.]

A steep left arching crack on the left side of the Fear of Flying Buttress. Climb past an old fixed piton into the widening crack. Belay on the tree covered ledge above.

Location 

Story of O area. Can be accessed after the first pitch of Story of O.

Protection 

Small gear for the lower section and large gear for the finish is what the guidebook recommends. I found a spot for a blue Alien just before the crack widens that allowed me to climb safely without bringing up big cams. Also, the fixed piton at the start is looking rough, I was able to get a solid nut just above it and avoided the pin altogether.


Comments on Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) Add Comment
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By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Jun 17, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Found the crux to definitely be the moves after entering the crack. Good call not really needing to bring a bigger piece for the top, as you have a good stance to place in the smaller crack and then after a few awkward moves your on jugs. A stellar route that doesn't see nearly enough traffic. Also there is no fixed pin at the bottom.

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