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Dynamo Hum 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Andy Roberts and David Mealey
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: David Mealey on Feb 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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The route.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a beautiful splitter route with good climbing and rock quality.
P1-Climb the perfect hand crack to a short wide section to a ledge at the base of a pillar. Build your own belay
P2-Continue up more good hands to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.
P3-Follow the splitter through fists and OW to a belay in a chimney below a large roof.(crux)

Location 

This route is the obvious splitter that is located near the center of the wall. It is probably the most compelling route and is hard to miss when looking up at the wall.

Protection 

Bring many hand to fist sizes and a couple of 5 camalots for the OW


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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 15, 2009

This route is only about 100' right of The Large "S" shaped chimney "The Constrictor". This route has the potential to be taken to the top. I think you need 2 ropes for the rappel.
By kevin fox
From: parker
Oct 26, 2013

So as far as gear beta , you definitely need a six. And you need a full run of gear.we used small cams like purple power cams. Also, this route is quite Chossy. Use a 70 meter and a tag line. Run the first two pitches together. Where they give you beta to build the first anchor, it is loose. The ledge that you come to where they say to build the first anchor is nice if bolts were installed on the left side. I really don't know if this route will ever clear up. Definitely adventure climbing. As far as perfect hand, that would be in the eye of the beholder. Don't get me wrong. The vistas are amazing.
By Andrew Ingraham
From: Conifer
May 10, 2017

I think I did the first pitch of this (maybe part of the first pitch?) with my wife last weekend. There were anchors installed at about 50'. Excellent climbing up to that point (I'm guessing 9ish?)There was a little calcite in part of the crack and I have never dealt with that before. Does gear typically hold tight in these situations? Anyway.. sunk the gear tight seemed solid . Been coming to Moab for over 20 years but never climbed. This was the by far my favorite spot of the trip.

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