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Dykes of Gastonia 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
Page Views: 2,310
Submitted By: R Squared on Jul 6, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Tony on p2 of Dykes of Gastonia


Climb the obvious dike on Stripe rock. Scramble up a small Dyke to gain access to an old homemade bolt and then continue onto the roof. This route is very very runout


You can place a .3 on the first pitch in a flake and use a #3 at the roof/horn belay after that you can use a .5 on the Dyke at the second belay if need be but it is detached so becareful.

Photos of Dykes of Gastonia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 anchor on Dykes of Gastonia
BETA PHOTO: P2 anchor on Dykes of Gastonia
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 anchor on Dykes of Gastonia
BETA PHOTO: P1 anchor on Dykes of Gastonia
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down p3
looking down p3
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down p2
looking down p2
Rock Climbing Photo: looking down p1
looking down p1

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By Iain Morris
Jul 30, 2007

This route requires some innovative slinging at times, involves some loose flakes, and a few tricky slab moves at the start.
By flynn
Aug 4, 2008

To start, proceed up and right on a ramp of sorts until you peek around a corner and see a creaky old bolt. Back down a few feet and establish an anchor with small-hand size springy things. My partner, a whiz at runouts, led the grainy first pitch, traversing up and right from the second well-aged bolt. About 170 feet and two or three placements higher, he belayed in the dike itself, backing up a horn with some gear. The second pitch follows the dike for some borderline-silly fun after the hair raising first pitch. The chickenheads are huge, providing holds, protection and eventually a belay anchor. The third pitch ambles away from the dike a bit into some 5.5-5.6ish slabbing that soon mellows out and deposits you on a very cool, potholed summit.
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jun 24, 2010

1st pitch is grainy and run out, keep your shoes clean. Fun climb though, placed only one piece of gear the entire climb, the rest was slung horns.
By Drederek
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

a buttonhead, a bolt and nice small cam on p1. Coupla horns each on p2 and p3. Rap Poly with 1 60m starting 20' over from the dyke
By dave bingham
Oct 14, 2011

"Dike of Gastonia" "Gastonia" refers to the famous french alpinist Gaston Rebuffat, who was often pictured standing in silhouette or atop a precipitous needle of rock - Gaston-ia.

I'm psyched people are doing this old-school route!
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Jul 28, 2013

One of the coolest rock features at the city - a must do for anyone who climbs in the area regularly. That first pitch is spicey 5.7 slab and the upper pitches are super runout. Awesome.
By DrApnea
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jul 2, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Belay at the roof where you start the dyke if you want to belay from anything besides a single chickenhead/horn.
Second belay is a single horn backed up by a single piece behind a block that is completely detached. Fun times but the belays are sketch.
Also the "home made bolt" is gone or I didn't find it. There are two newer bolts on the first pitch but it still deserves a strong R rating.
Also we walked around a bit before finding the rap station. Finish the route and continue up and over the back side to find the station. It is visible from the top without walking more than 20 feet.
By Justin Lofthouse
From: Utah
Sep 8, 2014

This is a really unique route. If you don't mind natural pro (horns) and really fun climbing, this route is awesome. People make it out to be more serious than it is. The climbing is not too hard and the gear is all there. I typically stay away from R routes, but this isn't that bad.

1st Pitch: Head up low angle ramp from the left side. A couple places for tcu's in seam. Clip 2 new bolts on steeper wall, yellow and orange metolious tcu in flake. Traverse out to small roof. # 3 or 4 BD cam in roof backup up with a huge horn. Not too hard, not too run out.

2nd Pitch: Bring 5 to 10 slings and sling horn after horn along dike. Not too bad, really easy climbing. I even skipped some of the opportunities for sling a horn. There is a place to place a tcu toward the top, but there are also horns close by. When you reach the detached block, climb back down and belay off of huge horn 10' below. Back it up with smaller horn.

3rd pitch: Sling a few horns. As the dike starts to trend right and go low angle, there won't be gear for 50' or so. Really easy climbing on the dike and granite scoops. Look up at a huge horn and gun for it. Really not that big of a deal. Belay and chain anchors.

Descent: Rap Poly-Stick-Em (60m rope). If you are rappelling down bolted line with tons of bolts, you are going down Cruel Shoes (cannot do with 60m rope).
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Jun 2, 2015

Just soloed this and found it to be less heady than Cruel Shoes. There is basically only a short section of slab 7 before hitting the features. Seemed really short for some reason.
By Doug Smith 3
From: Ammon, ID
Sep 22, 2015

Did the climb in 2 pitches with a 70 metre rope. First belay near the start of the big dike, 2 slung horns and a smallish 3-5 bomber nut. 2nd pitch almost the full 70 metres. WARNING: I don't recommend placing trad gear in the detached blocks, run it out for 75'... Absolutely loved the climb!

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