Type: Sport, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,926 total · 11/month
Shared By: jbak x on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Steep and powerful... lots of action and a cool finish. Originally visualized by Miles and Joe, and bolted by me, Joe and Cres. Named for Joe's method of doing the lower crux. This route was "assigned" to Joe, but he found other interests at other crags so it sat dormant.

Freeloader climbs 90% of Dwarf Toss before heading out the Chain Gang ceiling. So when Vince sent Freeloader he pretty much made the FA of this route academic, but to my knowledge Ian Evans did the first red-point of Dwarf Toss that actually finished at the El Torito anchor (April 2010).

There are 2 ways of doing the lower crux. The left-hand way (Vince's beta) has a chaindraw on the hanger. There is also a hanger (but no chaindraw) to protect the Dwarf beta if you like that better.

Height is a definite help on this route.

Location Suggest change

2nd route from left in the cave. Starts from the 2 bolt belay at the left end of the cave ledge. Ends at the El Torito anchor.

Protection Suggest change

bolts

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