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Pino Wall
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Bad Fun T 
Desert Man T 
Dust to Dust T 
License and a Visa S 
Parallel Universe T 
Pino Wall Route T 
Red Dawn T 

Dust to Dust 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Kear and Benny Abruzzo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 740
Submitted By: John Kear on Aug 29, 2014

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Benny near the end of Dust to Dust's second pitch

Description 

There are really several options here and in a way just major variations in the Bad Fun area. The rock is stellar as with most of the Pino Wall, true stone, water worn and highly featured.
P1 Follow the corner and blocky start of Bad Fun to the same belay about 80 ft up. There is now a bolted anchor here just above the tree that marks the top of the pitch. 5.8
P2 Step left off the belay and head up the shallow corner passing a roof to gain a nice corner groove straight above. Continue up the corner stemming and lie-backing through continuous 5.9-10 climbing. There is a wide section up high so its nice to have at least one #4. Top out the corner and traverse the ledge to a bolted belay on blocky ledges. 5.10b 120 ft.
There is a variation to this pitch and its highly recommended. After following the straight clean corner/groove for about 50ft, traverse left and up about 15 ft. From here follow beautiful face climbing and seams on perfect stone that lead to a steep finger splitter with a swallow left facing corner just to the right of the crack. Crank through this to finish by underclinging to the right to join the last few moves of the described main 5.10 corner. This variation is about 11b/c and superb!
P3 Step right up to the red and black face with two bolts, pull through to easier climbing above. The easy climbing leads to a bulge, climb over the bulge to a bolted belay. 5.11a 90 ft
P4 Climb straight up off the belay on 5.8-5.9 terrain follows intermittent cracks that lead to a steep gold and black headwall. Locate the bolt that marks the moves that pull through the steep section. Lie back the black crack for a few moves then step left on enjoyable face climbing that leads to the belay at the top of the climb. 5.11a 100 ft.
Keep in mind the Bad Fun is just to the left of these variations and its easy to intermix these routes if you choose.

Location 

The route is on the far right side of the West face of the Pino Wall. Follow the description for Bad Fun to find the start. There is now a rappel route that can be used to approach this route. It is recommended, you will need a 70m rope. Find the Rappel anchors in a small bowl feature on the far south end of the Pino Wall's West face. The first rap is about 100 ft long, slightly skier's left of fall-line. The next rappel is about 80ft and marks the shared top of the second pitches of both Bad Fun and Dust to Dust. The 3rd rappel is long and uses every bit of a 70m rope. The last rappel is 80 ft or so and leads to the "ground" at the base of the first pitch.

Protection 

Double rack with one #3 and one #4
P1 bolted belay
P2 bolted belay
P3 two protection bolts and bolted belay
P4 one protection bolt and bolted belay


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By Jason J Patton
May 20, 2016

The last two pitches link fairly easily with a 70. I had about 20ft of rope left and only minor drag.

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