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Dust to Dust 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe and Betsy Herbst 1974
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Apr 22, 2007

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Ian almost to the top of the varnished dihedral.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Work your way up the sandy chimney to access the tight dihedral on nice varnished rock. Climb the dihedral to a large ledge. Here, move left and climb a great finger to hand crack in a right facing corner for 25 feet (watch the rope drag). Pass a dead tree with lots of webbing and belay. 100 feet.

After this, low fifth class face climbing and progressively easier (but interesting) scrambling lead to the top. Walk off right.

Location 

This route climbs the crack on the other (left) side of the big tan buttress from Intestinal Flu.

Protection 

Gear to 4", extra finger sized cams might be nice.


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By Flavaflav
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 15, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Followed this pitch yesterday. It's less than 100 feet, half of which is on the worst rock I have ever climbed on. This says a lot since I do spend a fair amount of time on some obscure routes. you also can't place gear too soon (20 ft or so) or you'll get your rope stuck in a crack. The crux is a huge sandbag, we thought it was 10b/c. Then it relents after 10-15 ft and it's easy again.

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