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Sabbatical Wall
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Baby Fat T 
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De-Birth T 
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Dust Lung T 
Finger Fun T 
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Immaculate Conception T 
Induced Labor T 
Minute Man T 
Miscarriage T 
Mother  T 
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 
Reincarnation T 
Sabbatical 36 T 
Shotgun Wedding T 
Sperm Bank T 
Stillborn T 
Toss, The T 
Unknown D.F. Route T 
Unknown Flake T 
Womb, The T 
Workin' Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dust Lung 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 4/7/14
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Aug 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The route with anchors marked.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The initial right-facing corner is the crux, with fingers/tips/stemming on somewhat dirty rock to a shelf at 25'. This lower bit used to sport a towering pillar of stacked blocks, which were trundled to reveal the current start. Eons of dirt were caked behind these blocks, and although much was cleaned off, it remains dirty. It may clean up more with wind/water, but will probably need more traffic cleaning too.

From the shelf, commit to a steep squeeze that necks down to cups as you pull out of the apex. A short stretch of fists leads to a glorious cups splitter with stemming into the crack-less corner immediately to the right. Finish with fists in a flare and a lower-angled offwidth to an anchor ledge. The whole upper section of the route offers varied, physical climbing on great varnished stone. It makes up for the lower bit in my mind, but I guess I don't mind an "entrance fee" as much as some...

By pushing the route to the logical stance at the system's end, I unintentionally created a 40m lead. I apologize for the need for two ropes, as I prefer the convenience of one-rope routes as much as anyone!

Location 

Way out right, a couple hundred meters past Sabbatical 36 and a short distance past (through boulder tunnel against base of wall) a cluster of 30' routes. Take the right-hand approach trail, that leads up to the Sabbatical 36 area.

Protection 

(1X).2 (2X).3 (1X).4,.5 (2X).75,1 (1X)2 (4X)3 (1X)4,5 (2X)6 BD Camalot sizes, chain/cold shut anchor.


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