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Gun-Sight Butte
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Dust Bowl Dance T 

Dust Bowl Dance 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b C2 PG13 [details]
FA: Mitch Yaggie, Marilla Yaggie, and Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: All but the heat of summer
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Oct 16, 2016

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The FA party

Description 

This line starts free with hands and then after 20 feet disintegrates into off-width clean aid. It may go free around 12d with all the fat gear needed. Wear eye protection and socks. No chalk required. Just the will and stamina to reach this impressive summit.

Location 

The route is on the southeast corner of the south summit of Gun-Sight Butte

Protection 

Passive = A full set of tricams

Active = BD .4 X 3, #s 1. X 2, 2. X 2, 3. X 2, 4. X 5, 5. X 2, (old) 5. X 1, and # 4 Big Bros X 2. Valley Giants would help.

Anchor = Three bolts with webbing and a quicklink

Rope = One 60m and a tag line

After reaching the summit work your way around the hump just opposite your exit where you will find sufficient rock, crack, friction, and gravity working on your mass to establish a trad anchor equalized with a cordelette for the second. Then, after the summit "party", work your way north to the edge of the south summit near the "notch" where the rap anchor is located in the best rock available. Rap here off the east side only a min. from your staging area.


Photos of Dust Bowl Dance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dust Bowl Dance Topo.  The initial belay to bring ...
BETA PHOTO: Dust Bowl Dance Topo. The initial belay to bring ...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Bring the big bros. Note the pile of accumulated d...
Bring the big bros. Note the pile of accumulated d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking OW climbing to a whole new sandy extreme
Taking OW climbing to a whole new sandy extreme
Rock Climbing Photo: Great setting!
Great setting!

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