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Dusk In Dogtown T 
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interesting problem below, The T 
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Dusk In Dogtown 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Smedley and Jim Black 1980
Page Views: 2,258
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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great/only warm-up for adjacent routes

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.


This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Great route, one of the more obscure approaches ho...
Great route, one of the more obscure approaches ho...

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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Apr 30, 2008

If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 1, 2017

This is a fun and beautiful overlooked classic. Every move is memorable with Toweresque jamming and stemming. The anchor was replaced in 2015. Only a single #2 required, doubles below that. Go past El Cracko Diablo (right of the route) through some exposed scrambling sections, following the line of least resistance through some bush. Just after 5 minutes you'll reach a beautiful alcove beneath the Window, the most striking feature on the Tower. As a bonus, you can top rope 90% of Animal Cracker Land (12b) to the right.

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