Dusk In Dogtown
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great/only warm-up for adjacent routes
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Location: Take the south face approach to the base of Soler, continue traversing discontinuous ledges, past some rappel anchors, until below the window (series of overhanging roofs). The climb is located just left of the overhangs in a right facing dihedral. The crack has a V-shaped pod approximately 30' off the starting ledge. Note: The traverse from Soler to the window is quite exposed.This route features many fingerlocks and edging on low angle rock, surprisingly thin for 5.10 at the tower. The footholds on the face are fantastic, and even when the crack thins and protection looks nonexistent, things materialize. Rappel after the first pitch, or continue on the steep 5.12 RP fest above.
This could easily be lead with a double rack of stoppers. Most will want a few cams up to #1 or #2 Camalot.
Great route, one of the more obscure approaches ho...
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 10, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is a great route with varied climbing, good rests, and a nice crux finish. Definitely deserves at least 3 stars.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Apr 30, 2008
If you are very mindful of the ends of the rope and belay from the highest possible stance, you can do the route and lower/rappel off with a single 70m rope.