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Durrance Approach

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Centennial 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 

Durrance Approach Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.59002, -104.71425 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 76,256
Administrators: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 10, 2002
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Description 

This approach leads to Durrance and surrounding cracks. Durrance is the most popular route on the tower, and it is usually crowded during summer months. This area also contains the Wiessner offwidth, Best Crack in Minnesota, Rangers are People Too, Pigeon English, etc. This area is primarily on the south side of the tower, so expect hot sun through most of the day.

Getting There 

Take the trail east from the parking lot and then take a right at the junction a short distance away. Soon after, start heading toward the tower across the talus, taking the path of least resistence. This is also the start for the west face approaches. As you approach the tower, scramble up onto the southeast shoulder, and then depending on the route desired, follow this trail east around the tower. Durrance is located around the tower a ways, and starts near the location of the ramp for the south and east faces.

Durrance can also be reached by following the approach for the south/east faces until the start of the ramp. At this point, some scrambling/lower 5th class rock is required to get up to the base of the route and should probably be roped up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Durrance Approach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Durrance Approach:
Sundance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   
Durrance   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Wiessner   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 275'   
Pseudo- Wiessner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad   
Rangers Are People Too   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Manifest Destiny   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 155'   
Fritz's Fantasy   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
P.O.T.C.   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Direct Southwest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Lovely Liana   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Black-Jones Direct   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Durrance Approach

Featured Route For Durrance Approach
Rock Climbing Photo: A rare face climb on Devils Tower, FRITZ'S FANTASY...

Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Wyoming : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach
A great face climb up the Wiessner Column. Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests. There are a few loose flakes to beware of. Overall it is excellent.Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt. Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Durrance Approach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Durrance Area. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Durrance Area. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Rock Climbing Photo: P4 Durance
P4 Durance
Rock Climbing Photo: My Southwest Buttress Hurts...
BETA PHOTO: My Southwest Buttress Hurts...
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't forget your wide gear!
Don't forget your wide gear!

Comments on Durrance Approach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Andersen
4 days ago
The Durrance approach has been updated as of 07/10/2017. This includes reinforcing the existing trail, as well as an addition of rock steps and a retaining wall. Big thanks to the Access Fund and all of those who came out to help for a job well done.

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