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Durin's Bane 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 600', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+ [details]
FA: J. Forrester, J. Aslaksen, and D. Hoven (2014)
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter/Fall/Early Spring
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Joe Forrester on May 26, 2015

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View of belay on top of P4.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Durin’s Bane accesses the large roofs on the south facing aspect of the wall east of the Oracle. The climb starts with a bolt ladder. This route will likely go all free after a couple more ascents. While this route doesn’t climb a tower, it does put you in a totally awesome place way back in the towers. The exposure on P4 is spectacular and is likely the most overhanging pitch in the Fishers or Mystery Towers, and perhaps the most overhanging pitch on Cutler. Pitches below 4 stay dry in the rain and snow. Subsequent parties will likely be able to do this in a day.

P1- Start at obvious bolt ladder interspersed with easy hooking and occasional #1 beak placements. 23 bolts to the anchor. This pitch will likely go free at hard 5.11 (~140’).

P2-Head up the crack above the anchor using occasional beaks and cams. Continue up with additional passing two bolts into another crack on the right. (A2, ~110’).

P3 – Head up the phenomenal splitter arching up and left. Two #1 beaks were the only iron placed on this pitch. A large smattering of cams and stoppers are needed. Do not hammer this crack, as it will not last. The #1 beaks were used to bypass a loose part of the flake. This pitch would probably go free around 5.11. (A1 (Mostly C1/0) ~110’)

P4 – Head up in into the roofs. Wild pitch. Go up the loose flake (DO NOT NAIL) directly above the belay, into the corner leading to the obvious roof splitter. Two bolts protect the arête, and there is one after the roof to move into the second roof. This pitch is worth the climb. (A2, 90’)

P5 – Head right to a splitter crack that leads up and right to a belay about 10 feet below the summit. This pitch went mostly clean, just 2-#3 beak placements and would likely go free at ~ 5.10 (A1, 100’)

Descent: Rap the route. Fixed lines recommended on P3 and P4


Prominent roof system in the Netherworld.


60m ropes, 5 - #1 peckers, 5 - #2 peckers, 5- #3 peckers, 2 sets offset stoppers, set offset aliens, triple set of TCUs-#1, double #2, Double #3. All bolts were placed on lead and are 3 3/4” x3/8th bolts. All belays have two bolts with hangers.

Photos of Durin's Bane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading out the P4 roof
Heading out the P4 roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

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