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Kudos Left
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L to R R to L Alpha
Ambushed in the Night T 
Duppy Conquer S 
Get out of I-ret S 
Kreutzer , The S,TR 
Kudos S 
Step into the Light S 

Duppy Conquer 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Carville 1989
Season: all (except dead of winter)
Page Views: 1,128
Submitted By: John Robinson on May 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Amazing route!


Just Left of Kudos. See Mike Carville's 1991 guide book or the current topo on the main Emeralds page for information and location. Shade till noon then shaded by trees. This is one of the 3 original routes on the Kudos Kliff (Duppy conquer, Kudos and Ambushed in the night) put up by Mike Carville in 1989. The other routes on this wall were put up since 2005. For easy top rope set up, climb "Step Into the Light" and move right 10' to anchors at top of "Duppy Conquer"


Bolts and lower off anchors. Bolts were recently added by permission of Mike Carville to make the climb less sporty. This climb was a Mike Carville climb from the late eighties. Originally the first bolt you see wasn't there and there were no bolts on the last third of the climb.

Photos of Duppy Conquer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sun situation around 4 pm
Sun situation around 4 pm
Rock Climbing Photo: Me leading Duppy Conquer (right).
BETA PHOTO: Me leading Duppy Conquer (right).

Comments on Duppy Conquer Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Another nice route. In particular, the upper headwall has some very nice movement up a clean face. However, some care should be exercised clipping the second bolt on this route and the one to the right because if you muff the clip you are gonna come real close to hitting the deck. Not sure why this is the case because the second bolts could certainly have been placed a bit lower and clipped easily (in fact it appears that the original second bolt was actually removed and the new bolt is a foot and half higher...puzzling).
By Brad J
Aug 4, 2014

I Really like this route. Technical, tricky and powerful with some old school spice.
By Eugenel
From: PA
May 25, 2015

Pretty cruxey at the beginning; consider stick clipping that bolt. Couldn't find bolt #5. Scary run out.
By Brad J
Aug 6, 2015

Jalbers and Eugenel. This climb was a Mike Carville climb from the late eighties. Originally the first bolt you see wasn't there and there were no bolts on the last third of the climb. When we were putting up "into the light" and "get out of irete" we decided to replace the old, rusty bolts on the rest of the wall. After talking with Mike a decision was made to add some bolts to Duppy without changing the character of the climb. We added the first bolt because the triangular block you are going too is cracked all the way around and a broken hold at that point would suck. We added the bolts up top because it was originally a combination climb which didn't fit well with the sport area concept. I've seen people take falls onto the first and second bolts. If the belayer is paying attention there isn't a problem. Is it a bit runout and spooky? Yes, but you can toprope it easily and many people do.

Brad and John
By grabski
From: N California
Aug 25, 2015

Fun, technical climb. Some of the clipping stances are on thin edges, but nothing too spicy. Thanks to Mike for original bolting, and Brad for the re-bolt.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I think that the retro bolt is done well and the climb is reasonable and not runout by any means. Quality route for sure!
By Wes P
From: Reno, NV
May 23, 2016

Mad respect to Carville and crew for leading this on gear back in the 80s and 90s. It's thin till you're basically 5/6 up the route.
By Mike Ferrell
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 26, 2016

Super techy crimp-fest....I mean that in a good way :)

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