REI Community
Dunkan Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeneling, The T 
Dog Dreamin' T 
Frenchburg Overhangs T 
In Search of the Beeneling T 
What's Left of the Beeneling T 

Dunkan Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.84626, -83.64173 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,531
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Wagner on Nov 13, 2013
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Beautiful top-out in the Northern Red River Gorge.


A unique wall in the Gorge with very few routes, but with three of the Red's best trad lines and one of the most beautiful top-outs as well. Frenchburg Overhangs is a fun, long climb with abundant holds and great protection that is a must do for any 5.8 trad leader. To the right are two classic and beautiful moderate crack climbs, The Beeneling and What's Left of the Beeneling. All routes top out via a short scramble climber's left of the large overhang at the end of the climbs although it is more easily accessible via Frenchburg Overhangs.

Getting There 

Park in the pull-off for Phantasia wall (1 mile up the road from the intersection of KY 77 and KY 715) where the road turns. Walk back down the road a few minutes to another (small) pull-off and hike down to the creek. Cross the creek, and find the old trail (or don't) to the right of the small ridges and hike straight uphill to the cliff. Approach time 10-15 minutes, once you find it. The rock cliff is slightly visible from the approach.

Climbing Season

For the Red River Gorge area.

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dunkan Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dunkan Rock:
Frenchburg Overhangs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
What's Left of the Beeneling   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dunkan Rock

Featured Route For Dunkan Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Navigating the low roof on Frenchburg Overhangs.

Frenchburg Overhangs 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Dunkan Rock
Once you reach the cliff, find the obvious low overhangs with plenty of pleasant holds in the perfect corner and a tree approximately 50 feet up. Climb to the tree and belay, then climb the pleasant offwidth of sorts to the belay tree. Belay, then walk climber's left around the overhang to scramble to the true summit for a worthwhile view. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Comments on Dunkan Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About