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Dung Fu 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Long, Rick Accomazzo & Richard Harrison 2/73
Page Views: 5,636
Submitted By: Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Jan 4, 2002

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anchor point


This route is the small right facing dihedral/ big crack just to the left of Pigs in Heat, which makes it two routes to the left of White Lightnig. A good alternative when waiting for White Lighting, as it is the same grade, however the climbing here is more varied and less straight forward. It is bascially the next big crack to the left of While Lightning, the one that opens up to a wide chimney about 2/3 the way up.

Start up the right facing dihedral/crack and place bomber gear. Make a few delicate face moves (7) and get up into the chimney. This looks intimidating, but don't worry, you can do it. Move towards the rear of the chimney, and begin up it. Place a small cam if you want near the back as you move up. The moves are supringly good. Use your feet and chimney!!! Move up and out to the left where you should be able to place a #3 cam to ease the mind. Move up past a tree, and into another chimney. I went up the the right out of this, or you can go underneath and then up. (watch rope drag!!). You can belay from the ledge on top (a bit to the right) and do the double rope rap above and right of White Lightning. The varied climbing here will toughen you up and make White Lightning easier, and also get you in a Chimney while you wait for the classic. Not a bad climb here!


A wide variety of sizes, I think I used a 3.5 camalot. Varied.

Photos of Dung Fu Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adra approaching the cave on Dung Fu. Beautiful ro...
Adra approaching the cave on Dung Fu. Beautiful ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Anne emerging from the chimney
BETA PHOTO: Anne emerging from the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic at the big foot rest
Nic at the big foot rest
Rock Climbing Photo: "Dung Fu". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Dung Fu". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: The chimney on Dung Fu.
The chimney on Dung Fu.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the good rest below the chimney....
Looking down from the good rest below the chimney....
Rock Climbing Photo: At a good rest, just below the first chimney.  Pho...
At a good rest, just below the first chimney. Pho...

Comments on Dung Fu Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2017
By Carol
Dec 28, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

although Dung Fu gets the same rating (5.7) as White Lightning, I think its (DF) tough spots are more challenging than WL's because it can feel more awkward. WL is a cleaner route and more technically challenging (though straightforward).

for me, the first chimney was intimidating but it had reasonable protection.

at the first crux, I was clipping into my gear rather than additional runners, resulting in considerable rope drag once I exited the first chimney. as a result, I decided to belay from the cove of the 2nd chimney.

afterwards, we unroped for the short 2nd chimney. which is not a too dicey option because you will be fairly deep into the cove.
By Andy
Mar 19, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun route. The chimney is a fun problem with plenty of good pro and hidden holds.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 30, 2007

A very interesting and fun route. I'd recommend this one over White Lighting. thin moves in the shallow corner low, and then some well protected chimneying up high. fun!
By Steve Powell
Apr 29, 2007

although rated 5.7, more sustained than White Lightning or other 5.7 routes.
By nicolas restrepo
Apr 25, 2008

we didn't have any beta on this climb so we went the wrong way up when i got to chimney. i went all the way outside of the crack to the left around a very ackward overhang that seem like the actual continuation of the crack around the just seemd wrong to go in the chimney with so much rope drag.. made things a bit more exciting thats for sure, id say it makes the climb a 5.8 by going outside of chimney instead of inside and stemming it.
By dogtoe
Apr 25, 2008

the guide book does not tell you tha once you get to the cul de sac there is more face climbing. Aparently you can walk to th eback of the cave and stem up or you can stem the right side face fully exposed, pop in a couple pieces of questionable gear and climb the right side flake which is not in the guide book. After me and my friend nic decided to lead a formidable climb after the day before i led our first 5.6 The Bong we decided to jump up and do a longer 5.7 5.8 so we took Hemingway's wall dung fu. Quite a leap but nic did it all after just one little bout of downclimbing and then went on to not only make the cul de sac but climb the outside sketchy flake that i followed and cleaned up.

P.S. the guide book says climb the first crack straight up of the 3 crack systems for dung fu. Once you get up dung fu there is a big cul de sac. either climb up higher or set an anchor and belay fro here. A fantastic climb
By Johnnie Lyman
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Split this route into two pitches and it really helped with rope drag. Belayed from the first big cave. Started up the back of the cave to chimney. Unroped for the exit from the last little cave at the top. Fun climbing! You really get a little bit of everything!
By redstone
Dec 20, 2009

Although the chimney may be fun, I found that finishing to the left of the chimney and pulling through the bulge was also worth doing! Rope drag is not an issue either if you are careful about where you place gear.
By henrysunset
Mar 29, 2013

I was following rather than leading. Awkward start, and felt tougher than grade (not unusual for J-tree). The only part that felt sketchy was the last 20 feet when you have to shift left and your protection from above is a bit weird.

overall, it was pretty fun, but getting out from the top is a nuisance and we used a belay.
By Charles Cooper
May 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Excellent, long climb, with lots of variety. Love the cave! The crack takes just about any small to medium gear.
By Cron
From: Barrington, NH
Jan 24, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Don't listen to the hype and wait in line for White Lightning - this route is better. More sustained and greater variety of movement. Despite the wide section I didn't place anything larger than a #3. Rope drag is not an issue if you know how to use your alpine draws. Neat climb!
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 20, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very fun route, I would definitely recommend it!

Down low the crack was slicker and less secure than it looks. Pretty tough for a 7! Gets easier as you go up.

Belayed from the entrance to the second cave (at the tree) to avoid rope drag, then unroped and squeezed up the back of the cave (under both boulders) to top out. You could continue up the left flakes instead, but they looked of questionable integrity to me.

If you go up the boulder squeeze, take off your harness and helmet!

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