REI Community
Dunce Rock

Select Route:
Mudgumbis  
Unknown T 

Dunce Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.4365, -109.1845 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,640
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 17, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a relatively easy and fun tower (with a couple harder-looking routes on it...) that is close to the parking lot.

Getting There 

From campsite #3, walk toward the tower and right and down into a draw/dry streambed. You'll reach a point where two dry streambeds meet. Go up the left one (there will be a large bush at the mouth). Follow that for a ways and then cut left to the base of the tower.

Climbing Season

For the Fisher Towers area.

Weather station 9.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dunce Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Kent loving the mud.

Mudgumbis A2+  Utah : Moab Area : ... : Dunce Rock
This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladde...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Dunce Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel on dunce rock
Tristan Hechtel on dunce rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Tristan Hechtel on Dunce Rock
Tristan Hechtel on Dunce Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Dunce Rock from the campground.
BETA PHOTO: Dunce Rock from the campground.

Comments on Dunce Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 4, 2011
Don't waste your time. The rock quality is terrible, even for Fisher Towers. My friend and I both broke off numerous holds. Unsafe. 04/18/2011
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 18, 2013
I got the bolt ladder free at 5.10+? or something today. Hard to rate. Really quality climbing! Don't know if that's the FFA of the tower? Either way, I think it's a fun route to check out especially those looking to get on something free rather then just Lizard Rock and the Cobra. Though I don't think you would want to take whips on those pins but they would probably hold. It's a sport climb now!! :)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About