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Lower Great Face
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Anchor Baby T 
Beside The Seaside T 
Central Buttress/5.7 start T 
Closed Casket S 
DuMais Route T 
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Hobbits Way T 
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Pyramid Scheme S 
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DuMais Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Dick DuMais and friends late 70's
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Aug 7, 2002

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Description 

A Crag's classic. This takes the LGF's slabby left-hand buttress on excellent, solid face holds, but beware quite runout. Start at the high point on the saddle between Castaway and the LGF.

P1.Up a left facing flake then a featured 5.7S face to the top of the flatiron, 60'.

P2.Follow the lone fingercrack and at its end, arch leftward past a horizontally-incut rail then finally reach the right-facing dihedral line on the buttresses left shoulder, 5.8S. Continue easily to a large ledge, 150'.

A variation angles right at the top of the fingercrack, a little more committing, same grade and ends at same ledge. Walk off.

Protection 

Mid to small stoppers, TCUs and slings.


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