REI Community
First Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atalanta T 
Baker's Way T 
Butterfly T 
Direct Route T 
Dumais Direct T 
East Face Gully T 
East Face North Side/1st Flatiron T 
Fandango T 
Fandango Variation T 
First in Flight T 
Hubris T 
Kamikaze Overhangs T 
Massugu T 
North Arete T 
Red Slab Variation T 
Southwest Face T 
Way of the Ancients T 
Yellow Brick Road T 
Zig Zag T 

Dumais Direct 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
Season: Any
Page Views: 2,142
Submitted By: percious on Feb 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: This is my impression of the Dumais Direct (5.8R),...

  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start left of the Direct Route and follow the crack to the shared first Belay on the direct route. Continue up the Direct Route, then head left. There is a large eye bolt at the end of the second pitch. Follow the steeper slot (5.8R) through the overhangs up to a belay off a sturdy pass through. There is no gear for the crux, which is about 40 feet off the belay eyelet. Veer left or right tackling the roof above or heading off left. Finish the last 2-3 pitches as Direct Route to the summit.

    Options: With a seventy meter rope, it is possible to combine the first 3 pitches into two. There is a belay about halfway through the second pitch at a left-leaning flake. Aliens would be prudent for the pin scars.


    Start at the belay station for Standard. Nice alternative day out.


    Sparce at times. Metolius blue through big purple will get you there. Pink and red tricams are nice also. If you could trust them, Aliens would be nice in that range.

    Photos of Dumais Direct Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Percious cruising through the crux pitch.    Photo...
    BETA PHOTO: Percious cruising through the crux pitch. Photo...

    Comments on Dumais Direct Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About