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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 260', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: redpoint robby on May 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Pitch 1: Start at the base of the left facing crack system on the left side of the Duet Buttress. Climb moderate handcracks until the wall steepens then smear and layback up the blocky crack system (crux). Belay at the base of the enormous left facing corner of Duet Direct on fixed nuts/hexes. 100 feet 5.7

Pitch 2: Begin as for Duet Direct but bail out around the corner to the right before the crack steepens. Protect the move (crux) in a horizontal and move right into a huge right leaning crack. Traverse up and right with awkward technique and plenty of hidden holds in the crack. Enjoy the exposure and belay at a pin on an obvious ledge with small gear. Watch for loose rocks and be careful to protect your second in the last 30 feet; a fall would put them a ways down on the blank face below. 130 feet 5.6

Pitch 3: Depart the ledge up the obvious ramp to the left. Continue up easy ground for about 30 feet. Place a #3 cam about 12 feet above a ledge and downclimb to the anchor for Duet Direct. 45 feet 5.2

This climb can reach the top of the cliff but I have not completed it as the upper pitches are "loose and unmemorable." This is a great way to set up a toprope on Duet Direct. 2 60 meter ropes are needed to barely reach the ground from the anchor.


Approach as for WGR but when the talus field is reached head straight up towards the cliff past cairns. The climb starts near the left side of the Duet Buttress at an obvious left-facing crack system.


Standard rack to 3 inches. The second pitch could eat cams up to 6 inches but smaller options are available. A #3 is helpful for the final pitch above the downclimb.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 12, 2011

To rappel do you need to do a two rope rappel?
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 12, 2011

Yep, just barely, but ya do, or else its a sketchy free solo down climb 100+ ft up to the second rap station.
By losbill
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

You can come off the rap setup at the end of P2 with one 60 meter rope to within 35 feet or so of the P1 belay (Knot your ends!!!). Build a quick anchor there and have your second rap down. Lower the second to the P1 belay and have them place 3 or 4 pieces as they get lowered to protect your downclimb to the P1 belay. Good gear, good holds, goes quickly.
By Pete Wilk
Oct 24, 2011

Partner and I climbed Duet yesterday. After the normal P1 belay my partner headed up and linked P2-P3 together. He stopped at a fixed anchor that was different from Duet Direct's. In total he used about 50m-55m of rope from P1 belay. It was a horn slung with many slings and a couple rap rings. It wasn't the Duet Direct anchor as described above. We double rope rapped from there to the P1 belay, then did a single rope to the ground.

It's possible to rap Duet Direct with a 70m, though the rap down to P1 belay you should make sure you have an extra double length sling handy to put yourself into the anchor since it is very close. Also the last person on rappel should have a single knot in the rope so it doesn't spring up and out of reach after they are off. Or use two ropes if you prefer.
By Derek Doucet
Jul 6, 2012

I prefer to rap from the Duet Direct anchor all the way to the ground in 1 rap with 2 60s. This is better than stopping at the fixed anchor atop P1 for a 2nd rap because the P1 cracks are rope eaters. If you must do it in two raps, be thoughtful about how and from where you pull the ropes after the final rap, or risk stuck ropes. There always seems to be odds and ends of rope stuck in that pitch...
By Russ Keane
Jul 30, 2017

First pitch is better than anything on Whitney G. Old school 5.7 for sure, quite tricky. Loved it! Good belay station with rap rings, about 95 feet up, so a single 60 will suffice if you want to skip the rest and just make it a one-pitch climb.

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