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Dueling Grandmas 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: T. Goss, D. Binaz
Page Views: 578
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 24, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: route is located in the shaded area


A Dangerous and Bold undertaking.

This poorly bolted, mis-leading, death route will cause jaw dropping or denture dropping results. I would recommend being very solid at the grade before leading this route. Hard clips with deck potential mark the first 15 feet. A tense and very steep finish keep you on your toes. Relentless...


At the second most significant buttress from the entrance of the Gap, Dueling Grandmas sits recessed and on the right side of the small wall. Its most recognized by its up and left sweeping wave 10 feet off the ground.


Four randomly placed bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

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By RHeiner Heiner
From: SLC, UT
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Quality rock with great moves, pretty sequential. It's a scary lead, but also very easy to set up TR on. If you're a 5.11 leader it would be a good idea to work out the moves on TR before leading. It's a rewarding redpoint that's worth your time.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

We just pre clipped the 3rd clip with our trusty stick clip. This could have been bolted better to entice you to get on it.
By Jacob Pawlak
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 21, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

A pretty fun top rope climb, I don't know how I would've felt leading it since the bolts are pretty funky but there are some fun moves on this route.

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