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Stewart Peak
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All hail the mighty Tri-sac-a-saurus S 
Blade of Damascus, The T,S 
Dueling Bugles T,S 
Pancake Butt Dumpster Slut S 
South Crack T 
Zen Plum T 
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Dueling Bugles 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Manuel R, David S
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Mike on Oct 17, 2006

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Joe on pitch one, left variation, looking for a wa...

Description 

An average first pitch leads to a short but spectacular second pitch. Climb begins on far left side of east face. P1: Take one of several starts (5.7 to 5.10-) to meet at a large boulder, then scramble behind boulder and follow the cracks/chimney to a large ledge with an old bolted belay. P2: follow the obvious dihedral up, then up and right past bolts to the bolted belay for The Blade Of Damascus. The corner is very clean and has only a few holds, but excellent stemming gets you to the top.

Protection 

Protection for first pitch is trad. Gear depends on the exact route chosen, but generally a standard rack up to a #4 camalot with some long runners for rope drag will suffice. Second pitch is all bolts. Both belays are bolted.

Location 

Climb is located on the far left side of the east face of Stewart Peak, about 30' to 50' left of The Blade Of Damascus, depending on which start you choose to do. To descend, rap off of 2nd pitch anchors (directly above The Blade Of Damascus) with a single 60m rope.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Following the awesome second pitch of Dueling Bugl...
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