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Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison

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Crimp City 
Half Moon Slab 
Lockup 
Parvus 
Pipe Dreams 
When In Doubt Direct 
When in Doubt... 
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Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 43.07835, -89.44968 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,194
Administrators: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aidan Eno on Apr 25, 2016
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Several of these old drill scars look like they ha...

Description 

An old, abandoned quarry turned into a park in one of the nicest neighborhoods of Madison, WI yields plenty of potential for prime bouldering. The rock is mostly sandstone, with some dolomite. The sandstone parts are strong enough to hold on to. The area is mostly visited by people out for a short stroll and the neighborhood kids. Seldom is it frequented by climbers. There is an upper terrace and a lower terrace; the lower is very sunny, while the upper is quite shaded. Plenty of climbable area.

Getting There 

From the corner of Midvale Blvd and University Avenue, head east on University. Turn left on Highbury, and left again on Tallyho Rd. Make a quick right back on to Highbury, and after a house or two there should be a road heading into the quarry. The road is mostly dirt, but there might be some wood chips on the road. Parking is somewhat limited.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison:
Crimp City   V3 6A     Boulder, 17'   
When in Doubt...   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   
Parvus   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison

Featured Route For Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of "Parvus" and "When in D...

When In Doubt Direct V0-1 4+  Wisconsin : Dudley Davis Quarry Park: S...
Start in the crack in the corner right of "When in Doubt".Do a few nifty moves to avoid the dyno start of "When in Doubt" and finish the same way...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wisconsin

Photos of Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Someone's been here before. Further right than...
Someone's been here before. Further right than...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shorewood Hills neighborhood
The Shorewood Hills neighborhood
Rock Climbing Photo: Sign at top of park, on Topping Rd
Sign at top of park, on Topping Rd
Rock Climbing Photo: The entrance to the quarry
The entrance to the quarry

Comments on Dudley Davis Quarry Park: Shorewood Hills, Madison Add Comment
Show which comments
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 25, 2016
Bouldering area right in the city of Madison? Whaaatt?

Sweet!
By Aidan Eno
Apr 27, 2016
Yeah, I recently discovered this park, and I've started to brush off some holds and turn it into a bouldering area right here in Madison. It's been tough work, but it's getting better after each session I spend there. I hope people who live in Madison, but can't find the means or time to get out to Devil's Lake, start to use it as an outdoor resource. At least, that's my goal. Happy climbing!
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 28, 2016
Some history of the park is here:
shorewood-hills.org/index.asp?...

Sounds like a place that could use a helping hand!
By Tradiban
Apr 28, 2016
Damn. I never looked there. Good find! Keep it up!
By jaysquared
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2016
The dolomite on the upper terrace is really chossy, but the sandstone lower down is ok. While the rock is much taller on the upper terrace and some might be tempted to throw a rope on it, there is a good chance some very large blocks would come loose. Be careful!
By Kevin.K
Jul 16, 2016
Visited the park fort the first time today and there's good opportunity for more routes here. If someone wants to come establish some routes with me it'd be cool if we could use a step ladder and brushes to really clean it up. I'll just keep working at it in the meantime.
By Zach Hansen
Nov 4, 2016
Hey, I'd be interested in establishing some more routes here, I live <5 minutes away, so it's super convenient.
By Ethan Clark
From: Verona WI
Nov 25, 2016
I visited today, neat place that's easy to miss. I had no idea it was there. There's certainly potential there, but also TONS of loose rock. That said I saw a few things I'll be back to clean up and climb. Too wet today, didn't bring shoes. I really like the drive up access.
By Aidan Eno
Feb 6, 2017
I don't live in Madison anymore, so I won't be able to help clean up the area. You guys should definitely try to clean it up though. I recommend finding a route you think looks fun, then climb it, and any place that is too dusty or full of loose rock brush out with a large painter's brush. That's how I did it. Good luck y'all. Go set some routes.
By James Mutschler
Apr 7, 2017
Interesting little area. The upper tier does not seem to do well with freeze/thaw, as we removed softball sized rocks from most of the existing problems. Be very careful, very chossy up top.

The lower tier, at least the spots not covered in mulch piles, was pretty solid and had some fun moves. Best stuff is right by the entrance.

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