Dudes Lick It
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The first 80 feet of this route, up to the large roof, is excellent 5.10 climbing on superb quality rock. Alone, it would surely merit a four star rating and would provide a fantastic 5.10c warm-up. The climbing, however, continues over the awkward crux roof and deceptive face above. A chain draw and a hanger with a carabiner have been installed so that climbers can lower off at the lip of the roof and enjoy the moderate climbing below without committing to the 5.11 section above. 8 quick-draws will get you to the roof.
This route begins a few feet right of "Chicks Dig It" under a steep overhang. It was originally an old John Hartman abandoned project. It sat neglected for over 20 years with just three initial bolts. It now climbs past the first two bolts and then veers slightly left and up to a large, intimidating roof at 80 feet. The original 3rd bolt is still intact and is up and right of the second bolt. It's an old Rawl 5-piece and it's age has made it difficult to remove.
12 bolts, two are fixed chains with steel biners. Double steel biner lower off at top.