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Dude's Throne
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Dude's Jam Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,707
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Oct 25, 2010

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After the small roof.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


This splendid crack climb would be at right home at Cookie Cliff, or any other granite crack climber's crucible. It is well-protected throughout.


Dude's Jam Crack is one of the more obvious landmarks on the proud south face. It is straight and tall, from bottom to top, in the center-right of the face. If you climb to the top, walking off the back is easy.


Standard rack, up to a #3 Camalot. An RP is helpful up higher in the "changing corner" section. There is no fixed anchor on top, although before the final 15 feet, it is possible to lean over and clip the bolt anchor for the route to the left. If you intend to build your own anchor on top, a couple of extra medium pieces will come in handy.

Photos of Dude's Jam Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of the bottom part of the route.
A shot of the bottom part of the route.

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By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 20, 2012

As good or better than Howdy Doody Time and roughly the same difficulty. The best route I've done to date on the crag. 3 1/2 stars.
By Francisco Di Poi
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2012

Sweet line! Get on it if you does not disappoint!
From: Denver Colorad
Oct 20, 2012

Amazing line, really fun.
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jun 24, 2013

4 star quality climbing on 2 star quality rock.
By David Carter
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 6, 2015

Great climbing with good gear throughout. Felt a little soft at 11- to me. The climb sewed up without RPs or anything smaller than a #4 BD stopper. There is currently a big stopper fixed at the upper roof.
By Mike Minson
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sews up with about 6 pieces. I agree that .11a is generous. Hard .10 for a couple of moves, the rest is really casual. The rock quality is sold with the exception of the "RP" crack which climbs through 5.7 terrain, so there's no need to waste your time trying to get a piece in.
By gumbotron
From: Denver, CO
Jul 21, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

It's really worth taking a rack up to do this route, as it's one of the longest on the cliff. I agree that it's more like mid 5.10.
By Mark Rolofson
Apr 29, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A fun crack climb with a thin crux using some face holds getting over the first roof. I don't agree the climb is only .10c. Both roofs felt like .11a & the first one maybe as hard as .11a/b.
By Michael Underwood
From: Denver, CO
Jun 30, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent trad climb and well worth your time. You won't regret lugging your rack to the crag for this one. The route feels easier than the grade would suggest due to the numerous full-recovery rests, but the cruxes (and I felt there were about three of them) seem to range from hard 5.10 to easy 5.11. As an added bonus, the gear is plentiful and bomber. Very confidence-inspiring route, and a nice warm-up if you plan on doing some of the harder climbs at Dude's Throne.

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