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Duck In A Noose 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric McCallister, Eric Horst
Page Views: 575
Submitted By: attila on Oct 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Start behind a big flake, then up left facing flakes and blocks.


First bolted route when hiking east.


4 bolts, bolt anchor.

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By Chugla
Sep 16, 2016

1 year later... The hanger is still loose. Able to turn by hand.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Sep 17, 2016

Then take a wrench out there and tighten it.
By BrianWS
Sep 17, 2016

Chris - the constant "safety" reports of loose hangers without taking responsibility to fix the issue, ridiculous chalk warning signs, and other unintentionally obnoxious behaviors are becoming such a common theme at popular crags within the New. It's only going to get worse as the area becomes more and more popular with newer climbers.

Maybe it's time to add a disclaimer or area ethics disclaimer at the main page for each of the popular areas and walls. Can't expect newer climbers to have the experience with climbing hardware necessary to assess the safety of equipment or the understanding of fixed gear to know that they can most likely resolve these "issues" independently.

1) a quick note about how to properly hand tighten a nut without over tightening
2) a recommendation that parties carry the appropriate sized wrench or nut tool capable of tightening nuts
3) a note about chalk messaging, general fixed hardware stewardship, and other recommended practices and ethics
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Sep 18, 2016

I'm actually going to go the other way. Especially since this particular climber has visited the same route apparently and found the same loose hanger twice. If it was me, encountering loose hangers would be enough to make me carry a small crescent wrench, which I do because of such instances as the one described. It is as much the job of the climber as anyone else to know how the gear that is ultimately going to save their life works. That includes knowing something as simple as how to hand-tighten a simple mechanical device like a nut on a bolt. If you've run into a loose hanger more than once and it's freaked you out, that should be sufficient motivation to educate oneself and find out how to fix the problem. I think we can expect newer climbers to educate themselves about climbing hardware enough to assess the safety. We're not asking them to rebuild a carburetor or construct a Hadron Collider. If you're venturing outdoors and you don't at least consider the thought that you're entrusting life and limb to something that someone else installed, and if that isn't enough to make you do a little research on the subject and learn that loose hangers can and do happen and that it's a relatively easy problem to fix, then perhaps they should stay in a gym where you can just flag down a staff member and report it.

If this trend of explaining every possible scenario and adding disclaimers for simple things like this continues, then the outdoors truly will become nothing more than a gym in an outdoor setting. There are already plenty of resources available to easily research this information. I submit that adding yet another when so many already exist won't really address the problem. The problem is that people treat climbing like it's no different than a game of beach volleyball. No amount of disclaimers or warnings or instructions is going to change that. Only a healthy respect for the seriousness of the activity in which they're engaging coupled with a modicum of common sense will guide them through safely. Often both those prerequisites are missing from many of today's neophytes, among other things.
By BrianWS
Sep 18, 2016

Fair enough - you guys are the admins here after all. Not addressing the lack of awareness/know how/common sense isn't going to make the problem any better for certain as traffic increases, and that's a guarantee.

It's a matter of time before this kind of crap creeps it's way into endless and the other crags that have so far repelled the hordes each weekend. In my opinion, its better to do something about it at some point before it starts to affect access issues. Just my 2 cents.
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Sep 18, 2016

I appreciate both parties thoughts and opinions on the subject. I'm working with folks on ways to address this here at the New. I've added disclaimers on MP about chalk and have other areas about ethics, but in all reality few people probably read them. I'm going to take these comments down in a few days and copy them for future use during local meetings.

Thank you both for the input and thanks for the info about the loose hanger. Now go buy a wrench!!

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