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Harder Than Your Husband T 
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I'm Spartacus T 
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Left Torpedo Tube T 
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Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 
Lower Slot Left T 
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Mother 1 T 
Murphy's Law 
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Pretty S 
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Shotgun Willy  
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Slick and Superficial T,S 
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Soak'em In Cider 
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Straight 4 Ward T,TR 
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Sun Up To Sundown 
Tarsalation T,TR 
Ted's Trot T 
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Thunderbolt T 
Twinkle Toes 
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Upper Slot Left T 
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Vulture Direct T 
W.C. Fields T 
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War Zone T,S 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy T 
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Sean Dunlop on May 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Dual, route 94 from Robert Kellman's "Rock Cl...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Climb a 5.7 handcrack in a slot to a shelf and belay (30 ft). Get back into the crack on the left (crux) and continue on sustained jamming and stemming to the top. The crux is height dependent (9+ for those under 5'4" and 7+ for those over 6'3").


This is on the Northwest Face of the Nautilus (right end). It can be accessed by hiking north along the rock past the climbs Baldwin's Chimney and Humper.


Standard rack, up to a 3 possibly a 4 Camalot.

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By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A couple or more #3s, #3.5s will make this shorty crack pure joy. Didn't jam the left (and infinitely more protect-able) crack so much as stemmed between it and the less friendly crack on the right.

Guidebook and Mountain Project BOTH offer this "height dependent" beta BS without any explanation why. Here's why: the opening move at the midway shelf (after the initial 5.7 crack) to acquire the "duel" cracks would be mighty exciting for someone with short legs. It's a full-on opposing arms stretch between two walls, pump up to a Kungfu legs-horizontal stem (make sure you hands-in-prayer-position for a quiet moment) and only then start cramming and jamming the duel cracks. It's an effing heart stopper (and crotch ripper) unless you're over 5'10". Wear your best Chuck Norris pants and an extra pair of boxers.

ALSO: nevermind what the book says about belaying again after the first 30ft crack; there's simply no reason for it. Jam a #3.5 (or a #4 or whatever) high and left with a single runner and there's zero rope drag.

Have fun! A good one to get on if there's a conga line on Mother. Not as hard as all that....
By RyanO
From: sunshine
Aug 1, 2011

Yeah, definitely a height dependent crux. At 5'6", it felt more like 11a than 9+... easily aided though, if you want to have a good time :) Otherwise a fantastic line, the belay at 30 feet was actually really nice and a good place to get out of the sun.

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