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Dry Socket 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 2,542
Submitted By: Jake Richens on Sep 30, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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Getting ready to come back down

Description 

Third from the left, shares anchors with bloody impaction.

Protection 

Bolts to anchors


Photos of Dry Socket Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My brother Matt Bennett Climbing Dry Socket
My brother Matt Bennett Climbing Dry Socket
Rock Climbing Photo: Christian on Dry Socket 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Christian on Dry Socket 5.8
Rock Climbing Photo: nicely spaced bolts, nice hand crack in the middle...
nicely spaced bolts, nice hand crack in the middle...

Comments on Dry Socket Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
May 14, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

No longer shares anchors with Bloody Impaction. Can be led safely trad, heavy on the cams, and a long runner.
By Scott H.
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If using the anchors for Bloody Impaction,there's much less of an issue with rope drag when TRing this route. When leading this trad, theres placements for #4-1, then it gets a little thin for gear at the top, but that parts pretty easy.
By Goat
From: Salt Lake City
Apr 17, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Interesting start, essentially a walk up to the first 2 bolts, then you hop on the ledge and get moving up following the crack to the left. Stay to the left of the clips and you'll be fine, there are two big holds above the anchors that are not easily seen until you're on top of them.
By Adam Schmidt SLC
From: SLC,UT
Dec 16, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Can be worked from the face to the right, or from the crack to the left for an easier climb. If using the crack, feels more like a 5.6/5.7
By Zane Halvorsen
Sep 8, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The right anchor bolt is starting to loosen up. The entire connection point spins freely. Ended up choosing not to set an anchor for my wife and instead rappelled off.

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