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Dry December 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: F.A Bo Johnston, Anthony Bilotti (1990) F.F.A Chad Suchoski (2006)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,631
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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See the climber just above the horizontal crack in...

Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>


This route starts about 40 ft to the left of the Pillar and goes between a break in the canopy of two trees, then up the steep central face of the Pagoda. There are anchors at 100 ft but the route continues to the top and can easily be done in one pitch. Pockets, crimps, mantles and route finding is the name of the game on this one. Going strait up is not always the easiest way to the next bolt. You can easily make this route much harder than the grade. The crux comes just off the belay anchors on the second pitch. A few moves later and you're back in the more moderate range. The first pitch is 5.7 and can be toproped from the anchors with a 60m rope. Though this route has been around for more than 15 years, it was just recently bolted in the summer of 06 and could use a little trafic to clean it up.


Decend by rappelling the route (huge potential for getting your rope stuck)or make a short rap down the back side on chain anchors.


13 Quickdraws

Photos of Dry December Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Libby following up the first pitch of Dry December...
Libby following up the first pitch of Dry December...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy heading up the 2nd pitch on a misty winters da...
Roy heading up the 2nd pitch on a misty winters da...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the 1st pitch anchors looking on up the ...
View from the 1st pitch anchors looking on up the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam about to top out!
Sam about to top out!
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the belay anchors.....
Almost to the belay anchors.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolts and chains at the belay anchor as of 2/16/12
BETA PHOTO: Bolts and chains at the belay anchor as of 2/16/12

Comments on Dry December Add Comment
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By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 24, 2009

Looked like a good line up the face of The Pagoda, but... The climbing totally sketched me out as I pulled holds off and the sandstone crumbled beneath my feet. Even being careful with loose holds it worried me...

It is a nice line up the face and was fun for my partner on top belay.

Watch out for poison oak at the start!

Don't throw your rope in the poison oak when rapping off the back!
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Apr 12, 2009

Such is the nature of Pine Canyon. You have to familiarize yourself with the nature of the rock before you feel solid on it. It's choss, but great climbing none the less. Not everything out there is that bad. Don't give up just yet, keep climbing out there and you'll get the hang of it soon enough.

Pine Canyon is an place to find adventure, not contrived safety and a day of mindless climbing. It's a great place to become strong in mind, as well as strong in body.

Think of the place as a "great gift" to the bay area.
By Phil McAllister
Jan 25, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The trees have recently been hacked down on the back side of this climb - and having had quite a bit of traffic of late (even since the first time i climbed in a few years back) a lot of the choss has been cleaned up.
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 7, 2015

That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down.
By AndreaA Arends
Aug 8, 2016

Love this climb! One of my favorites in Pine Canyon. Everything is as put in the description. Lots of feet, lots of hands. IF you're new to climbing or climbing on sandstone, please be gentle. Knock before pulling down or stepping on holds; if it sounds hollow don't use it. There are tons of other options to help avoid those on this route.

We did it in a single pitch with a 70m rope, & rapped off the chains on the back of the rock.
By Mackenzie Scanlan
Nov 15, 2016

Watch Out for Loose Rock!!

I was climbing this route on Sunday November 13th and a foot long long hold I was holding onto completely fell off. I whipped 20 feet and slammed into my left heel. Broke my heel in 4 places and am now out of commission for 3 months.

Never climbing sandstone again! Only Yosemite Granite for me:)

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