REI Community
Rabbit Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chim Chim Arete S 
Drumpf T 
Stemtastic S 
Stretch S 
Thinlistic S 

Drumpf 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ken Ewing and Los Alamos Mountaineers - mid 1950s
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 19, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Intelligent climbers will avoid this one yet some folks might give it a try without fully thinking through the potential consequences. If you have tiny hands, this will feel a bit more difficult.

I'm adding this just for posterity's sake. My friend Mark and I climbed this wide crack/dihedral/chimney thing in 2008 on gear, simul-rapping off the formation with one of us on each side of the rock. It was a quick, fun experience but with the bolted route Stemtastic now just left of the crack, I wouldn't expect any repeats of this gear climb.

I later learned from a long-time Los Alamos climber that Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and nearby Battleship Rock, in the 1950s so I'm sure this crack had been climbed prior to Mark and I climbing it in 2008.

Climb featured rock up the dihedral using the grungy crack in the back for gear. The angle eases off up high.

Location 

The dihedral/overlap/chimney thing on the right end of the formation between Stemtastic and Chim Chim Arete

Protection 

Gear to #3 camalot. Optionally, a small broom and mask.


Comments on Drumpf Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 23, 2016

Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 24, 2016

George Perkins wrote:
To my surprise, this crack was solo'd in the 1980s by Bob Roback and another companion from the field camp he was in in the Jemez at the time, though they assumed it had been climbed previously.

Jason Halladay wrote:
Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.

George Perkins wrote:
Oh Jason I wasn't trying to be argumentative. Bob just mentioned it today when we were there, about to walk into UEF, so I thought I'd post it so you knew of an earlier known ascent than that listed here at the time I posted. Figured you'd appreciate it. Like I said, it kind of surprised me. I see you've changed the FA credit anyway, which is not surprising, and as I posted above, Bob never did presume to have done a FA.

Oh, no worries, I didn't take the comment as argumentative in any way. I had been meaning to post this info and your comment spurred my memory to do so. Thanks. Nice to have more info on the history.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About