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Der Freischutz
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 2,235
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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  • Description 

    This short but sweet face climb ascends the middle of the textured face on the southwest face of Der Freischutz, following a line of four bolts. The route has a gorgeous backdrop of Bear Canyon, and so one might want to bring a camera for this one! Start at a large hueco below the first bolt. Climb straight up past four bolts on the beatiful face into a right facing corner and over the top to anchors. The crux of the right is located right at the fourth bolt, and consists of balancy moves of hidden sidepulls and edges to gain a small ledge below the final corner. The climbing up to this point is no harder than 5.10, and winds its way upward between a series of solid crimp-sized flakes and edges with plenty of feet. To descend rappel from the anchors (50 feet). This would most definitely receive three stars if it was not so short.


    Bring four quickdraws and gear for the anchors if one is toproping.

    Photos of Drugs Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christian edging his way up on Drugs.
    Christian edging his way up on Drugs.
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: Drugs.
    BETA PHOTO: Drugs.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Susan Schima climbing "Drugs".
    Susan Schima climbing "Drugs".
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moe Hershoff climbing "Drugs".
    Moe Hershoff climbing "Drugs".
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moe.

    Comments on Drugs Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 8, 2002

    This is one of those weird routes that, although it is vertical, you feel like you pull with your toes.
    By StanL
    From: Louisville, CO
    Apr 27, 2003

    Two star climb, three star setting.
    By XOG
    Feb 14, 2005

    As of Feb. 13th Drugs has been re-equiped with permission from OSMP and thanks to Nate and Terry, the ASCA, FHRC, and everyone else that contributed.
    By ac
    Feb 15, 2005


    Can you please give us specifics on the hardware that was placed: Fixe bolts or Powers bolts, what size 3/8 or 1/2, stainless or plated steel, hangers (fixe, metolius, or petzl) etc.???


    Rob Palmer
    By XOG
    Feb 15, 2005


    I didn't replace the bolts - just provided a belay for part of the day. The ASCA kindly donated the hardware; I suggest you contact one of to get the information you are looking for.

    - Greg
    By Nate Adams
    Feb 25, 2005


    The ASCA provided all the hardware for the anchor replacement. Thanks ASCA!! Bolts are Fixe Triplex Stainless Steel, 75mm (3inch). Hangars are Fixe SS with powdercoat camo. Anchor is Fixe SS rap ring and Fixe Plated Steel Chain Anchor. All the visible gear is camo'd with red Rustoleum.

    I didn't get a chance to climb the route, but it looks pretty sweet. The bolt spacing is sporty enough to keep your attention.

    I welcome any constructive criticism/comments.

    Greg brings up a good point regarding bringing a wrench. If you do, I suggest a ratchet with a 17 mm socket. However, I would strongly advise that you do not tighten the bolts unless the hangar appears to be loose. This is critical, as overtightening could result in a time bomb. The new bolts are Stainless Steel (SS), which is less forgiving than mild steel, in regards to proper "torque". In placing any bolt, I prefer not to err on the side of over "torque-ing".

    I would venture to say that, being SS the new gear will last decades longer than the original gear.

    Note that Street Hassle, Knot Carrot and Touch Monkey have received new gear. Thanks Terry, Greg, Kevin, and others.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 11, 2007

    Thin, sharp, tough when too hot (slick) or too cold (can't feel).
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 10, 2007
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Good finger warm-up for Power Bulge.
    By Davy O
    Sep 11, 2009

    Someone needs to bring a wrench up to tighten the nut on the first bolt. It was very loose today (about to fall off). I tightened it by hand, but I'm sure it will work its way loose again soon.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 16, 2014

    The nut of the lowest bolt in the anchor is quite loose, which causes the hanger to spin. Hand tightened it as much as I could today, but it didn't do much....

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