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Underworld Rock
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Balance Sheet T,S,TR 
Black Market Babies S 
Drug Lord S,TR 
Gestapo Priest S,TR 
Hair Dresser T,S,TR 
High on Life S,TR 
Hit Man S,TR 
Poop Shoot S 
Underpass S,TR 

Drug Lord 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,070
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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David Caunt on the first ascent of "Drug Lord...

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Description 

This is located on the leftside arete as you climb uphill from the large cave that sits on the southwest face of The Underworld. Climb up the arete finding a 5.10 face move after the third bolt. Before this bolt and after this move the climbing is considerably simpler. For a direct start, begin around the corner on the left using a single bolt on the leftside face to the arete, which sits about 12 feet off the ground on this side. An excellent scary traverse move will bring you over to the arete and the third bolt of the arete.

Protection 

5 bolts to the shared top anchors on the top of The Underworld. The direct start is 4 bolts to the top, and it is a good idea to clip the second bolt as a directional is you're going to do the direct start.


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By Hank Sato
Aug 23, 2004

Direct Start (Left Side of Arete) is rated 5.11A. If you keep climbing left side of the 1st bolt of the direct start using flakes, I felt rating is not hard (maybe 5.10). I also went up from the right side of the 1st bolt directly going up the arete using slopers. This move is more fun and a bit scary, and maybe 11A (but not so hard once you know the move). Which every you choose to go, you almost feel like skipping the 2nd bolt (which is the 3d bolt of the 10C start).
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

An OK route.
By Sergey Shevelev
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 23, 2017

I probably don't know what is the exact line here as if you follow the bolts, it seems that it's significantly harder that 10c

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