||Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice, 120'
|Original: ||WI5 M7+ [details]|
|FA: ||Dave Rone|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||31|
|Submitted By: ||Dave Rone on Mar 30, 2013|
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Getting through the crux. Good tools but poor fee...
A fun route on excellent rock and steep ice. Climb past 9 bolts to a ledge about 80' up, where you'll find a bolted anchor. It's a bit cruxy from the 5th to the 6th bolt, where the parallel-sided crack widens, and the feet get thin, and then again gaining the ledge. Move across the ledge to the right, and climb overhanging and then vertical ice, finishing to the right of the trees above.
An alternate finish continues up the well-featured rock face (small stoppers, C3's, C4's to 1.5") above the ledge to its end, then move right and finish on easy ice.
From the road, follow the trail into the Ice Palace for 15-20 minutes, passing the drainage slope for 10% Real, et al. A few minutes later you'll see the big ice of Remember the Day up to the left, at the top of the second drainage slope. The route follows the nose of rock immediately left of the start for Remember the Day.
Nine bolts to the ledge, 4-6 screws for the ice. Stoppers and cams for the alternate finish. Belay and rappel from either the Ranxerox Tangent or Remember the Day anchors.
Getting set up for the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Climb the blunt arête left of the ice to a ledge....