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Drill Rig 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kohl, Puppo, Rousek 1994
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006

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Description 

An archetypical ORG route featuring continuous vertical crimping. There is a thin technical crux past the 2nd bolt, then a rest, then some sustained 5.10 and a secondary crux getting to the anchors -- if you blow the last moves, scream loudly if you want your belayer to hear you.

Location 

On the left/upstream sector of Failsafe. The middle of three routes on the west facing wall.

Protection 

12 bolts


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By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 12, 2014

What a climb! Gotta be in my top 10 for the Gorge that I have done. David makes it sound much easier than I found it. First, it is thin and hard to the first bolt, not much for the feet. I was barely able to commit, kept thinking about my ankles. Stick clip next time. Great hold to clip from though. I found the crux getting to the 2nd bolt. Getting to the 3rd was hard as well. 4th and 5th bolts were more in the 5.10 range. Above the ledge was another 5.11 move with the ledge in the back of my mind. After that continuous 5.10 until the last moves to the anchor that were 5.11 for sure.

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