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Brown Noser S 
Chain Reaction S 
Dreamsicle S 
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Meh S 
Nerdy by Nature S 
Once You Go Black S 
Orange is the New Crimp S 
Razzmatazz S 
Shades of Gray S 

Dreamsicle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Matt Cupal on Nov 20, 2016

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Description 

Perhaps the best multi-pitch route in Logan Canyon (not too many to choose from so don't get too excited). Shares first 1.5 pitches with Shades of Gray (see that description), but cuts right 1/2 way up the second pitch to a shared anchor with Chain Reaction.

A 70m rope will get you from the first pitch, to the top, then back down to the ground.

Protection 

Two pitches, about 8 bolts each, plus anchors.


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By Taylor Gemperline
Jul 20, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Loved this route! The 10b top pitch is steep, juggy, exposed and not to be missed! Possibly my favorite climb in the canyon. Great job!

Just some clarification:

The first pitch starts in the "slot" from the ground. I had been confused by what the "slot" was. If you look up from the ground you will see some white chains at the top of a V groove. Those are the first chains for Brown Noser. The beginning of Shades of Grey is the slab on the left of the V. The bolts are black and VERY hard to see.

Its hard to tell where Chain Reaction and Dreamsicle meet. From what I understood, if the bolts are black they are part of Chain Reaction? I pulled the first roof and then continued straight up for the 10b when the 5.9 goes left.
By Matt Cupal
Jul 22, 2017

Clarification on routes.

Taylor is right. This route follows the blunt black arete on the left side of the V groove. It climbs up about 12 feet left of the white chains at the bottom of Brown Noser.

Chain Reaction and Dreamsicle meet about 3 bolts from the top. The bolt colors mean nothing beyond what I had in the bag at the time.

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