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Middle Mother's
Routes Sorted
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Beyer's Rib T,S 
Brevity T 
Centurion T,S 
Connotation T,S 
Coxswain T,S 
Days of Wine and Roses T 
Definite Article T 
Denotation T,S 
Denouement T,S 
Dirty Harry T 
Double Reach Around, The T,S 
Dreamscape T 
Drive-by Diking T,S 
First Impressions T 
Flora Dora T 
Free Falling T 
Indirect Objects T 
Iron Maiden T,S 
Jagged Edge T 
Jenny-Lynn's Special T 
No Name 1 T 
No Name 2 S 
No Name 3 T 
No Name 4 T,S 
Ol' Hucklebuck, The T 
On Golden Pond T 
Rise of the Phoenix T 
Scanners T 
Under the Roof T 
Wandering Charm T,S 

Dreamscape 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 345'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randall Chapman, Robert Rowsam, Fritz Nuffer
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,611
Submitted By: Rschap on Jun 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Randall and Robert topping out.

Description 

Pitch 1: 5.4 climbing up a corner with good pro and fun movement. The pitch ends on a big ledge 35 meters up. There is no bolted anchor for this belay but plenty of options for building one.

Pitch 2: climb up the small, blocky, 5.7 overhang with good pro. We used the left crack next to a bush to pull the overhang. Finish on a big ledge about 35 meters up. There is a bolted belay that is the middle rap anchor and is shared with Scanners.

Pitch 3: there are multiple options to a big tree and the end of the climb. The pro is a little trickier on this pitch. There is a bolted belay at the beginning of the rappel. This is about 20 yards shy of the top of the cliff, but it's a class 3 scramble to the top from there.

Location 

This route lies on the slab 10-15 feet to the right of the rappel for the routes on Upper Mothers in the gully that separates Middle and Upper Mothers.

To reach it, hike the main trail from the parking lot up to Upper Mothers then head up the gully. The route starts in the first left-facing corner to the right of the chimney that has some huge tat slung chockstones for the decent.

There is a bolted rappel that can be done in 3 raps with a single 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes. The rappel starts at the top of the third pitch.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Dreamscape Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The climber is sitting at the belay on top of the ...
BETA PHOTO: The climber is sitting at the belay on top of the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dubious terrain pro on P3.
Dubious terrain pro on P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Randall on P2.
Randall on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P2. Stay left when passing the roof to ma...
Start of P2. Stay left when passing the roof to ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P1.
BETA PHOTO: Start of P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch and the old descent.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch and the old descent.

Comments on Dreamscape Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Apr 23, 2015

Once this gets cleaned up, it will be nice.
By Hannah12
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2016

I dislodged a large block (3-4 feet long by 1 foot wide?) about 10 feet above the second belay station on 5/24/16 that nearly hit my partner down at the belay. My partner also threw a basketball-sized rock from the 2nd pitch...this route needs cleaning. Thankfully no one was below us in the gully.
By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 4, 2016

I’m sorry for your experience, and I’m glad no one was hurt. This route was put up on a ground up ascent, and it was Fritz and Robert’s first ground up FA. As a first ascensionist, I always make efforts to clean as much of the loose rock as I can to make the route as safe as possible, but sometimes rock isn’t loose at the time, is off route enough to where I feel it won’t cause a problem, and sometimes it’s just not seen. I did rap the route a few days after it was put up and clean a bunch of loose rock, but I may have missed some. I am out of town and won’t be back around till sometime next year, but the next time I’m able, I will go rap the route again and see if more cleaning needs to be done.

It should be noted that for all of the development that has been done here, Unaweep is still adventure climbing. The canyon doesn’t see the traffic that some of the more popular crags see, and it takes time and multiply ascents to get a route completely clean. That said, I’m out in California right now, and I’ve been climbing a bit at Tahquitz, one of the oldest crags in the US. Rockfall is a regular occurrence here, and it takes the life of people every few years it seems. I’m just saying it might be a never ending battle, and the routes may never be completely safe, but that doesn’t mean we should try.

I hope this experience doesn’t discourage you from climbing in the canyon, Unaweep is an amazing place, and the WCCC has done a lot of hard work to keep it open for all to enjoy. I hope everyone is doing what they can to mitigate risk while climbing here, wear a helmet, stay on route, try to avoid climbing below another party, and try to avoid touching loose rock, etc.

Cheers,
Randall Chapman