|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 345'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Randall Chapman, Robert Rowsam, Fritz Nuffer|
|Submitted By:||Rschap on Jun 18, 2014|
|Comments on Dreamscape||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Zak Munro
From: VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Apr 23, 2015
|Once this gets cleaned up, it will be nice.|
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2016
|I dislodged a large block (3-4 feet long by 1 foot wide?) about 10 feet above the second belay station on 5/24/16 that nearly hit my partner down at the belay. My partner also threw a basketball-sized rock from the 2nd pitch...this route needs cleaning. Thankfully no one was below us in the gully.|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 4, 2016
I’m sorry for your experience, and I’m glad no one was hurt. This route was put up on a ground up ascent, and it was Fritz and Robert’s first ground up FA. As a first ascensionist, I always make efforts to clean as much of the loose rock as I can to make the route as safe as possible, but sometimes rock isn’t loose at the time, is off route enough to where I feel it won’t cause a problem, and sometimes it’s just not seen. I did rap the route a few days after it was put up and clean a bunch of loose rock, but I may have missed some. I am out of town and won’t be back around till sometime next year, but the next time I’m able, I will go rap the route again and see if more cleaning needs to be done.
It should be noted that for all of the development that has been done here, Unaweep is still adventure climbing. The canyon doesn’t see the traffic that some of the more popular crags see, and it takes time and multiply ascents to get a route completely clean. That said, I’m out in California right now, and I’ve been climbing a bit at Tahquitz, one of the oldest crags in the US. Rockfall is a regular occurrence here, and it takes the life of people every few years it seems. I’m just saying it might be a never ending battle, and the routes may never be completely safe, but that doesn’t mean we should try.
I hope this experience doesn’t discourage you from climbing in the canyon, Unaweep is an amazing place, and the WCCC has done a lot of hard work to keep it open for all to enjoy. I hope everyone is doing what they can to mitigate risk while climbing here, wear a helmet, stay on route, try to avoid climbing below another party, and try to avoid touching loose rock, etc.