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Bo Diddley T 
Cruising for Bulgar T 
Dreams Of Darkness T 
Dreams Of Light T 
Good Cleavage T 
Marsupial T 
Reckless Abandoned T,TR 
Seamed Like Fun. T,TR 
Sick and Wrong T 
Sugar Glider T 

Dreams Of Light 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 2/23/02
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 23, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Dreams Of Light ascends the offest offwidth to the...

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  • Description 

    Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Dreams Of Light is a nice and [varied] crack and left-facing dihedral system that ascends from the left side of the prow. Climb up the broken dihedral past a few "trimmed" shrubs to a squeeze chimney. Go up a [squeeze] chimney for 10' to a seat on the arete to the left side. This is a great rest. From the seat, move up a few moves and look left. A hand-to fist crack diagonals up and left through the overhang/roof (3.5 camalot, then #1 camalot). Instead of tackling the messy offwidth straigt up, work diagonally left through the hand-fist crack and pull the overhang (crux) and continue up the thinning crack system. Near the top do not go back right into the dihedral, but continue up and left on (slightly runout?) face climbing, 5.8+. The face climbing could be protected to the right, if so desired, but it will probably not feel hard to anyone who has completed the crux of the climb.

    This climb is worthy with a fun crux. Even the squeeze chimney moves are good, and certainly unique for Eldo.

    To descend, walk to the left to a series of trees and rap as described in the 'rock' page for Sobo


    A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers. The largest Bigbro would protect the easy squeeze-chimney section, if so desired.

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