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Left Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buddha Belly S 
Dark Side, The T 
Dreams Never End  S 
Effects Of The High T 
First Amendment S 
Flavor of the Minute S 
Ghengis Warm Up T 
Grainstorm  T 
King Size T 
Perfect Moment T 
Seismic Wave S 
Special Forces T 
Termination Dust S 

Dreams Never End  

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 385
Submitted By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Mar 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Climb up the center of the pic.

Description 

Dreams is a fun climb located a few climbs to the right of Seismic Wave. The first pitch is most commonly done. It begins below a short crack in a bulge above your head. Climb over the bulge to get to a rest, then climb to the shared anchor on First Amendment, Grainstorm, Buddha. Additional pitches exist after the first anchor.

Pitch 1: 5.11d. Climb some bouldery moves to a good rest, move left and climb through sustained moves ending on a crack and some easy moves to the chains. 70ft

Pitch 2: 5.11b. Climb on good holds left of the chains to a right leaning ramp, be very careful of loose blocks. Pass 7 bolts on the ramp and exit out left on steep climbing (3 more bolts) to a two/three bolt anchor. 100ft

PItch 3: 5.11d. climb left on good holds and good feet to a technical and difficult corner. Stay direct on the corner and move past the crux using crimps and compression magic. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 40ft. There is another bolt visible from the anchor but it is missing a hanger, I imagine this would take you to the top of the wall.

Either rap with 2 60M ropes to the ground. Or rap straight down to the clearly visible anchor a second rap will take you to the ground. Both of these raps are largely free hanging.

Protection 

Bolts, Bolted Anchors


Comments on Dreams Never End Add Comment
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By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 30, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Stick clip the second bolt as the first one is low enough that it doesn't protect the climbing to the second.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 2, 2014

or place some small gear in the low crack after the first bolt... probably like .3 to .5 or so... I'd stick clip though...
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
May 3, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Wave-bolts installed on P1 04/2017.

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