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Insect Wall (including Block Party)
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Dreamkeeper 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Page Views: 802
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 3, 2009

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Stephen Kirk sticks the crux of 'Dreamkeeper&#...

Description 

This route has a distinct crux going to the pocket in the middle of the lower steep wall. The climbing stays on you till you are over the lip though and the final roof provides an additional challenge. Really if you know where you are going though you should not come off up high.

Traverse right and slightly up on thin crimps. Move up to a sidepull and make a desperate (crux) move to the obvious 2 or 3 finger pocket. Move up into the short left facing block just below the lip. Make a long cross to a slot over the lip and pull up onto the face where you can get a complete rest. Trundle up jugs to the roof above. Make a long move over the lip off of and undercling. Then up on pockets and edges to the anchor.

Location 

This route is near the right end of the Insect Wall. Just past a curtain of ivy growing down the wall. Look for the most obvious (possibly only) nice round pocket about half way up the 45 degree overhang and the small left facing corner just below the lip of overhang.

Protection 

6 bolts to a bolted anchor. For working the moves it is easier to just clip the first bolt, but for red-pointing it is nice to have the first two bolts pre-clipped so there is no worry about hitting the ledge.


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