REI Community
World Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aborigine S 
Bad Guy S 
Black Ice S 
Black Is All We Feel T,S 
BLM-3 S 
BLM-4 S 
BLM-5 S 
BLM-6 S 
BLM-7 S 
BLM-8 S 
Bust the Move S 
Bust the Rhythm S 
Californication S 
Californicator S 
Chicxulub S 
Chronic S 
Dairy Freeze S 
Deluge S 
Devil's Advocate S 
Disincarnate S 
Dr. Evil S 
Dreaming of a Life of Ease S 
End of the World S 
Enigma S 
Extended Evil S 
Extendorigine S 
False Idol S 
Flatliner S 
Gerbil Killer S 
Girls in the Gym S 
Hang It Out To Dry S 
Hydrophobia S 
Illness/Extended Illness S 
Jealous God S 
Jug or Not S 
Lizard King S 
Lost Horizons S 
Megatherion S 
Oedipal Complex S 
Opening Act S 
Oval Orifice S 
Pornification S 
Pornstar S 
Propaganda S 
Psycho Wussy S 
Psychosomatic S 
Rainy Day Woman S 
Reptiles and Amphetamines S 
Slaborigine S 
Slug Lover S 
Son of Jesus S 
Sweet Tooth S 
Technorigine S 
Viagro S 
Vudu Guru S 
Wide World of Fitness S 

Dreaming of a Life of Ease 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,289
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


There are many varations between 5.10a and 5.10d that access the upper pitch. This climb is to the left of a right facing dihedral on the arete. Once you gain the belay keep going up on the arete. The second pitch is clearly the crux at 5.11c with lots of cool moves over a bulge. Hidden holds will stuff most onsight attempts.


Bolts and a few nasty pitons from long ago. Bolted anchor to chains at the top.

Comments on Dreaming of a Life of Ease Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian Z
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2012

The first pitch is a fun 5.10d climb.
By gregman
Aug 17, 2015

Second pitch is worth climbing for the 5.11 climber tryin to get stronger for the 12s at the wall. It's a little less pumpy and more techy than Abo/Psycho wussy, which is a nice change of pace. You can also approach with the 5.9 to the anchors and then go up and right onto the corner, following the fairly obvious bolt line.

I recommend unclipping and cleaning the first draw after the anchors once the following draw is placed and clipped, to reduce the drag, since you are in a good resting position before the crux sequence.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About