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Stone Mountain South Face
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Unsorted Routes:

Dream Waves 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Chris Rowins, T. Meager
Page Views: 216
Submitted By: Johnny O on Sep 5, 2014

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Description 

The first pitch is the same as Dixie Crystals. It is the first bolted line to the left of White Way Direct. There are two bolts and a bolted belay. There are a multitude of ways to start but one of the easier is a nice flat spot just left of a massive pine tree and below a large dish in the rock. The first bolt is a little awkward to access. Climb straight above it or move around right on easier ground and up into some flakes. The second bolt just seems to be off of the line and doesn't make sense. I am a little dubious of the bolts as "Select Climbs" is the only guide showing these two bolts. The earlier guides show no bolts. There is another line just uphill on a large block that climbs up on a dike and some seams/scoops towards the belay rings. It is of equal difficulty but has only one opportunity for pro and is sketchy at best but looks to be the earlier line.

From the belay, follow the dike that heads up and to the left. The crux is just off of the belay where the the dike becomes thin. The guidebooks recommend clipping the bolt on Dixie Crystals to protect the second through the crux. I went ahead and did so but it is a little out of the way. There are two bolts along the dike before the belay. The first is along easy terrain and the second is just past a fun, tougher section. The belay is on a decent sized ledge just above the dike and below a sickle shaped overlap/flake.

The third pitch follows the dike a short distance then heads straight up to the sickle shaped flake. This is the only spot on the entire pitch that can be protected. Continue up to a ledge with several trees at the base of a large overhang. Use a tree for the belay. The fourth pitch continues to the summit and is unprotected. It is too easy to matter.

Location 

Up the hill from the Block Route. Start the same as Dixie Crystals or any number of alternative starts.

Protection 

Sparse bolts as with the typical Stone route. No anchors at all on pitches three and four. Some opportunity for additional pro.


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