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This route on the apron is a link-up of the best pitches of two routes: Unfinished Symphony and Dream On. 3 pitches of 5.10 slab lead up to a 5.10b traverse and then a 2 pitch shallow corner (10d) finishing with a 5.11b slab crux pitch. The route is runout in places but generally well protected. Like a number of other routes on the apron, there are a few rusty quarter-inch bolts that add some spice to the route.
A handful of cams up to # 2 Camalot and 8 draws. Double up on small cams (blue to yellow Aliens) and nuts for shallow pin scars in the 10d corners.
Nov 22, 2008
I did this when there were old bolts. Latest report I've heard is that these have all be replaced with new stainless gear. Still runout though!
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 7, 2010
Pretty spicy. A little runout, only a pin and a bolt on the 10a pitch. The 10d corner system was really cool. Great route.