REI Community
Aeolian Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 
Cactus Connection T 
Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 
Gift of the Wind Gods T 
Inti Watana T 
Resolution Arete T 
Thanatos T 
Woman of Mountain Dreams T 

Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 18 pitches, 2400', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Sept 2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,296
Submitted By: Sam Boyce on Sep 28, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: overview

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A long, sustained and committing route up one of the most obvious features in red rock. With a keen eye it is visible from town. It has a lot of fun and interesting climbing but has a few sections of extremely mossy rock that detract from the overall experience. Even still it is a worthy adventure that will clean up with traffic, and is likely one of the technically easiest climbing routes that summit Wilson. This is how we spaced pitches on the FA, pitch lengths are approx. unknown linkup possibilities, bring more gear if you want to try and link pitches.
P1- Head up easy face into a funky and mossy corner with a hand crack, possibly heady at times but the gear is there. Continue up the corner and turn left into the easy gully and continue up to a huge tree to belay. 200' 5.9
P2- A short low 5th boulder problem leads to a 4th class scramble up to the base of the main wall. 60' 5-
P3- Scramble up the ramp straight above and into a corner with a wide crack, funky stemming leads to some easy face to the base of a flare. 5.7+ 140'
P4- Head straight up the strenuous flare (crux of the route), continuing straight up the featured wide crack and hand crack. Step right at some overlapping cracks, belay at a small ledge below a shallow corner. 100' 5.9+
P5- Straight up the crack a short ways, then step right into the corner. Stem up the corner to some chockstones, face climbing out left avoids the stones, continue straight up to a ledge next to a mossy wide crack. 100' 5.9
P6- THE MOSS PITCH; step right for some easy face climbing through the moss (5.6), then step back left into a short chimney, continue up the crack to a mossy roof (5.9+), a hand crack above leads to a creative stance below the next big roof (Dont worry most of the moss is done with after this pitch) 100' 5.9+
P7- THE BULGE; stem straight up, some commiting moves before your first piece, then pull the fun hand crack roof. A splitter hand crack above leads to a finger crack bulge that stems, continue up to a stance 30' below a big bush. 100' 5.9+
P8- step left and stem easily around a tree, continue up the corner past a ledge (optional belay here) to an uncomfortable belay up in the chimney. 150' 5.9
P9- Continue up the chimney eventually turning into face climbing around a wide crack, belay at a stance below a big gaping flare. 140' 5.8+
P10- Up a short ways and step right into a seam that runs the length of the flare, this is runout with funky gear and isn't the easiest climbing. Alternatively, chimney the flare at an unknown grade. Head past the bulge and continue up the chimney. Chimney up past where it turns to a squeeze and cram your way through a pretty tight hole below the giant chockstone above. There is a lot of gravel and some less than inspiring rock at the end of this pitch. 180' 5.9 R
P11- another rope stretcher. head up the squeeze chimney, a little runout but pretty secure. Chimney out and around a chockstone (a horizontal directional keeps the rope away from it) and continue up the corner past a short OW, easy flaring chimney moves lead you up to one final roof. Belay at some giant boulders and a ledge. 200' 5.9
P12- Mostly easy scrambling. head to the left side of the gully to avoid the brush, a short and easy finger crack leads you up to the notch where inti watana tops out. 120' 5.7-
From here you can scramble down the ridge about 100' to the chains for inti and rappel, or, more in character with the route you can continue up the upper section of resolution arete to summit.
P13- Head up the easy diagonal crack and surmount a tricky overhanging 5.9 boulder problem, belay on a big ledge. 150' 5.9
P14- Traverse left to an OW, climb it straight up to another ledge. 60' 5.8
P15- Easy walk/ move the belay across the "catwalk" 100' 3rd
P16- Up the funky OW on the left side of the gully until a stance below some crap rock. 150' 5.8
P17- Loose climbing up and left heads out to a giant tree. 100' 5.8
P18- Scramble, simul, with possible short pitches up the path of least resistance to the summit. 400' approx. 5.8

Descent- Rap inti if only climbing to the top out, or walk off the back side of wilson.

Location 

The giant laser straight crack system that runs parallel and to the right of Inti Watana. Approach as for inti watana. When you get to the inti gully, keep in the main gully system that heads up to woman of mt dreams. After a short bit of elevation gain you'll see a ledge with a giant cave on the right and an obvious black water streak down the middle. The first pitch climbs a hand crack to the left of this streak. Approach will take approx. 2 hrs for the average party.

Protection 

In camalot C4; 6-1, 5-1, 4-2, 3-2, 2-3, 1-2, .75-2, .5-2, .4-2, .3-2, .2-1, .1-1; optional second 6, didn't use a single nut, bring a couple tricams if you really want to. Single 60m rope if carrying over, double 60's if rapping inti.


Photos of Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: entering the opening squeeze on p11
entering the opening squeeze on p11
Rock Climbing Photo: the final squeeze through on p10
the final squeeze through on p10
Rock Climbing Photo: exposure high on the route
exposure high on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: the shallow stem corner on p4
the shallow stem corner on p4
Rock Climbing Photo: the butt bulge
the butt bulge
Rock Climbing Photo: the moss pitch, it climbs cleaner than it looks...
the moss pitch, it climbs cleaner than it looks...
Rock Climbing Photo: p3 ramp and p4 flare
p3 ramp and p4 flare
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch
BETA PHOTO: first pitch

Comments on Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Boyce
From: Changes with the seasons
Sep 28, 2016

In all likelihood much of the dirt and small rockage that was cleaned from the upper pitches funneled into the lower pitches, so if you want to go for the 2nd, 3rd ascents be prepared to clean the rock off on lead. And on that note, the first 5-10 (maybe more) ascents will have a generally mossy experience on a couple pitches, climb it with that understanding and you'll have a fun adventure, get out there!
By Flavaflav
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 28, 2016

my two cents...

If you can push through the approach pitch and also the flared chimney, I think the route is within your limits. While they are somewhat different from the rest of the climb, I feel the climbing is overall exceptionally varied and required creativity to surmount various cruxes. Many of the crux bulges require OW movements, fortunately they are protected very well. Having done Wilson's Cleavage, I think this route has way more different climbing and protection is more available. Getting off this one without bailing off cams would be hard as opposed to LWC which has several areas on the first few pitches with hex placements.

Doing this route in a day would have trashed us completely.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About