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Dread Pirate Roberts 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Dec 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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George topping out on the Dread Pirate. The Fezzik...

Description 

Very thin start to fun and varied climbing. Has a face climbing crux right off the ground and a power crux at the top. The offwidth to the right of the corner is the Fezzik variation. It goes at 5.10, #5 and #6.

Location 

Ten feet to the right of Title Nine; this is the obvious corner with big OW just to its right.

Protection 

#0 to #2, about two each. Useful to have a #0.1 or 0.2 to protect the moves off the 3/4 way ledge.


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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

RPs might protect the boulder problem start. If it seems uncomfortable, use a stick to drop in a bigger nut above. Or go up the lightning bolt OW to the right.
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Feb 19, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Be ready to drop a 000-C3 cam or a #4 stopper into the crack just above the crux ledge. Alternately, you can pop a #1 C3 cam into the tips crack way out right. Either way, you will want some gear soon after mantling up out of the hard corner start.

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