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Dread Locks 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Les Ellison, Doug Moffat 1977
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2010

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Lance, climbing Dread Locks near the end of the da...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great overhanging crack system to the right of Death Flake. I think this is a great route, and would give it 3-4 stars except for a short section which required grabbing holds covered in guano. I guess I have been climbing on routes covered in Guano for over 20 years and it hasn't seemed to harm me yet... Go for it, a classic route.
Pitch one is great, for Pitch 2, climb directly up the face and exit on cracks to the left of the summit pinnacle.

Location 

Dread Locks is the next major crack system left (west) of The Burner crack, and the crack system right of Death Flake.

Protection 

I usually recommend the LCC rack... one set of stoppers, one set of cams from small to large.


Photos of Dread Locks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Burner Buttress seen from the notch between Bongea...
BETA PHOTO: Burner Buttress seen from the notch between Bongea...
Rock Climbing Photo: Burner Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Ca...
BETA PHOTO: Burner Buttress seen from the Little Cottonwood Ca...

Comments on Dread Locks Add Comment
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By mountainsense
Oct 3, 2010

guano=good
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jan 14, 2012

Climbed this thinking it was Burner. The graphics in the guidebook are a little vague for this section.

There's a large boulder right above the first large "flake" that's lose. I'll bet if you cranked on it hard enough, it would dislodge. Unfortunate as it has two great holds on it.

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