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Death by Misadventure T 
Drawstring T 
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Flake, The T 
Golden Bush Corner T 
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Huevos S 
Jungle T 
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Let It All Hang Out T 
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Mike's Books T 
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Secovar T 
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Sympathy to the Devil T 
Trapeze  T 
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Zigzag T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Woody Stark & Dick Webster, May 1969
Page Views: 1,215
Submitted By: Crotch Robbins on Apr 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: "Drawstring". Photo by Blitzo.


Squirming, grunting, and cursing with a relaxed feel. Bring the wide stuff, and wear more than a thong and sports-bra. The climb is always reasonable with an edge not too far away, and requires some pure ow/squeezy moves on good clean rock.


This route starts around the corner (clockwise) from Mike's Books and ascends the obvious left-leaning wide crack.


Gear to 3 inches, one bolt (1/2" SS)

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By C Miller
From: CA
Jan 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not a bad route that will often be available when the area by Overhang Bypass/The Flake is busy. Easily done as a single pitch, the transition from crack to friction face is especially memorable (there is one 3/8" bolt on the upper face).
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the only reason going from the crack to the face is memorable is because it feels great getting the hell out of that Offwidth hell!!! Calling this wide, squirmy route a 5.7 is nuts IMO... Maybe 5.8 as it is listed here... But for me today it felt more like a 5.9... then again my offwidth technique has never been that good... just like with Waterchute 5.10b, I am glad this one is now out of the way...
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 17, 2009

Led the first pitch today. I thought it was pretty straight forward as far as climbs of this nature go. It will certainly scare off the gym climbers and bragadocios without wide cred. Second pitch is all there, but somewhat runout. All in all I'm glad it's off my tic-list! Don
By Moof
From: Portland, OR
Jan 7, 2016

Used less wide stuff than I expected, a singles form 3" to 7" is plenty. Still found the need for #0.75-#2,which surprised me. Getting from the "trough" on to the face is indeed a bit exciting, the upper slab is run-out but no big deal. Would do it again. Bat Crack is probably a good warm up right next door (another gravely/grovely good time romp)
By EthanC
Feb 25, 2016

I didn't place any gear until I made it up the ramp to the crack, biggest I had was a 4. The chimneyish/slab start is a bit scary, but not too hard. The runout above the crack is also a mental crux, but there is a bolt in the middle that's hard to see from the last pro, which makes things a bit more reasonable.
By Dimes
From: Joshua Tree, Ca.
May 31, 2017

The bolt on this route was upgraded today by the ASCA with a 1/2" stainless steel bolt and a Camo SS hanger.

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