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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John O.
Page Views: 1,189
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 14, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Note there are actually 4 bolts. The 2 cold shuts...


Clip the first bolt from a good stance, figure out a slightly awkward sequence to gain a big ledge, and then scurry up the left side of the prow utilizing good holds on and near the left arete.


This route climbs the first pillar encountered on the right while walking up the Cedar Creek trail.


3 bolts, to 2 open cold shuts.

Per Felix Wong, this route has 4 bolts.

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By IanBarrett
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jan 29, 2013

FA: John O.
By Mathias
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 13, 2015

This is the first route I (tried) to climb at The Palace, and it sure felt harder than a 5.9 to me. I had to back-off what I assume is the crux before getting to the second bolt for fear of decking. That's a rough section. I climbed Churchill Rejects, Sunday Times, and The Scepter the same day, and none of them felt as hard as the lower section of this route. My partner attempted it too, came off halfway between the first and second bolt, and almost hit the deck (feet touched the floor). This was despite me having almost no slack out and dropping down to catch him (and I'm the heavier one, by a lot). So to anyone leading around 5.9 and looking to try this route, be careful.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
Oct 17, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Just climbed this route. Fun climb, but got the knees shaking after the first bolt! Spotter should be ready to catch.

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