Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Summit
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Comply or Else S 
Drastic Park S 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Hang Em High S 
Sanitarium - Irie Headwall pitch S 
Treasure Chest S 

Drastic Park 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Worrall/Shannon, et all
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: SCherry on Jan 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Amazing and mega! This long sustained line climbs up the middle of the "Irie Headwall" as a single pitch affair to anchors on a nice ledge at the top of the main Summit wall. Its long, has a few varied cruxes, some excellent rock, and an exciting/sporty finish.

Access "Drastic Park" by rapping into the Irie Headwall via 2 rappels via the route "Where Eagles Dare" and traversing along the broken ledge to the right. Alternately you could walk around the front of the cluster of rocks at the Summit to access the "Drastic" anchors and rap with 2 ropes from here to the ledge.

The Irie Headwall is blocked on the right side by a low roof guarding the upper impeccable orange/brown stone. Begin the climb by stepping up off the ledge to clip a high first bolt. Negotiate the first crux moving over the roof to get established on the headwall at a stance. A few more tricky moves on amazing holds leads to a short left facing corner. Solve the tricky corner moves (probably easier if you are tall) and gain a layback flake leading to a large flat rest jug. Shake here and get ready for the sustained red point crux leading into a shallow, right-angling dihedral. At this point the rock changes character to the white/orange, more coarse grained granite. Follow the angling dihedral via crimps and grippy slopers to its end, then move back left to lower angle terrain with more widely spaced bolts. From here the difficulties are over but you still have to manage the pump and the runouts for 3 or 4 more bolts of 10a climbing to the top of the wall with a perfect ledge and a 2-bolt anchor.

Location 

This is a single pitch line that starts off the broken ledge system at the bast of the "Irie Headwall" about 200 feet down from the top of the main Summit area. Rap in via the route "Where Eagles Dare" via 2 rappels.

Protection 

14 bolts


Comments on Drastic Park Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -